PARIS — Many people became amateur body-language experts during this Paris fashion week. With Tom Ford negotiating to renew his Gucci Group employment contract with Pinault-Printemps-Redoute between fittings for his Yves Saint Laurent Rive...
PARIS — Many people became amateur body-language experts during this Paris fashion week. With Tom Ford negotiating to renew his Gucci Group employment contract with Pinault-Printemps-Redoute between fittings for his Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche show on Sunday night — and company officials mum on the subject — fashion observers were looking for signs of progress.
At the Alexander McQueen show on Friday night, Gucci boss Domenico De Sole, who is also in negotiations to renew his contract, warmly greeted François Pinault, who controls Gucci Group with a 67.6 percent stake, and proceeded to have a long, friendly chat with PPR chief executive Serge Weinberg. But many attendees remarked on Pinault’s puzzled expression during McQueen’s dance-marathon production.
At the French Vogue party on Thursday night, Ford was introduced to John Galliano, Dior president Sidney Toledano and Louis Vuitton chief Yves Carcelle, ratcheting up the intrigue. “It’s a small world,” Carcelle remarked the next day when asked about the encounter. “If you put 120 fashion people in a room, everybody kisses everyone.” A picture of Ford with Galliano and Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld taken at the party — a rare show of détente, given the recent Gucci-LVMH war — was shown to Pinault, who asked the photographer: “Is that a montage?’
At Sunday’s Stella McCartney show, before most guests arrived, De Sole could be seen rearranging the place cards in his section. Was he creating, or avoiding, a photo opportunity?
Sources close to De Sole and Ford said over the weekend that talks are getting tense. Control issues, not compensation, are said to be the focus of discussions. De Sole declined all comment on their progress, as did Pinault at the YSL show on Sunday. Weinberg would only say, “I hope it will come rapidly to a resolution. I don’t want to comment on the content of the discussions until they’re concluded.” Both De Sole and Weinberg also denied suggestions that they face any deadline to conclude the negotiations.
In any event, it’s shaping up to be a vital week for both companies. Gucci, which earlier this year suffered a 96.6 percent drop in first-quarter profits, will report its first-half results on Wednesday, while PPR will release its third-quarter sales on Thursday.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia