NEW YORK — The American collections blew through town last week and several designers — some new, some pros — offered their takes on girly flirts, nature lovers and sophisticated women.
Sometimes a girl just needs to slip into something comfortable along with her Birkenstocks. She can head to Indigo People, where in its debut women’s collection, designer Siri Kuptamethee took inspiration from Mother Nature and showed just how cool camping and safari frocks can be with lots of neutral colors and camouflage pieces. Victor de Souza, meanwhile, turned out some interesting draped dresses, corset tops and jackets. A bit of comic relief interrupted the serious atmosphere, however, when one of the male models lost his pants while strolling down the runway. Language boutique owner Ana Abdul created her own line a year ago with a collection of reworked, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. Because of demand, she decided to create looks that could actually be manufactured and this time showed a Twenties-inspired collection of dresses and tops trimmed with re-embroidered lace, beading and silk fringe.
David Rodriguez did lots of ruffles while, for her third collection, Mary Ping took a minimalist route with her cotton twill jumpsuit and a simple tank top with pegged pants. It all looked comfortable, wearable and modern. Wilbur Pack Jr., the gutsy designer behind SKWilbur sent out six leather or denim looks, inspired by the movie "Gladiator," in front of the Bryant Park tents just before and after Michael Kors’ show.
Brazilian beachwear designer Amir Slama showed a slew of bikinis, maillots and sexy cover-ups for Rosa Cha. And there was something for everyone, as long as you’ve got a bod for sin and a bikini wax to match — and who better to model these than than Naomi Campbell. Turkish designer Atil Kotuglu, inspired by the Whirling Dervishes of his homeland, did ivory mini caftan dresses and organza shirts in varying lengths. Korean designer Haneza whipped up some pretty laser-cut tops and a group of airy, beaded tulle and lace skirts, tops and dresses. Y & Kei featured lots of mother-of-pearl, metal and wood accessories with their line of layered, neutral-toned tops, oversized cotton trousers and denim cargo pants. Meanwhile, three South African designers, Malcolm Kluk, Julian and Clive Rundel, showed collectively as Afridesia with richly toned iridescent taffeta or chiffon dresses, often detailed with lots of crystal or wood beading.Zaldy and Anne Bowen brought in live music for their shows this season. At Zaldy, the audience was treated to a performance by Rufus Wainwright before the designer unveiled his collection of draped jersey tops, silk chiffon dresses and crystal-embellished suede pieces. Meanwhile, a lesser-known, but charming Mark Copely opened for Bowen, who showed a lineup of navy, nude and white dresses with either glass bead, abalone shell or mica details. More enthralling, however, was dreamy Ben Chaplin sitting in the front row.
And finally, 18-year-old designer Esteban Cortazar’s much-anticipated debut collection was a high-wattage event featuring the likes of Ivana Trump, Todd Oldham, Anne McNally and the Hilton sisters. But all the excitement turned out to be a bit premature. The bathing suit-inspired gowns and the draped, twisted chiffon dresses showed promise, but most of the collection resembled a caricature of Miami glamour.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast