NEW YORK — The American collections blew through town last week and several designers — some new, some pros — offered their takes on girly flirts, nature lovers and sophisticated women.
Sometimes a girl just needs to slip into something comfortable along with her Birkenstocks. She can head to Indigo People, where in its debut women’s collection, designer Siri Kuptamethee took inspiration from Mother Nature and showed just how cool camping and safari frocks can be with lots of neutral colors and camouflage pieces. Victor de Souza, meanwhile, turned out some interesting draped dresses, corset tops and jackets. A bit of comic relief interrupted the serious atmosphere, however, when one of the male models lost his pants while strolling down the runway. Language boutique owner Ana Abdul created her own line a year ago with a collection of reworked, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. Because of demand, she decided to create looks that could actually be manufactured and this time showed a Twenties-inspired collection of dresses and tops trimmed with re-embroidered lace, beading and silk fringe.
David Rodriguez did lots of ruffles while, for her third collection, Mary Ping took a minimalist route with her cotton twill jumpsuit and a simple tank top with pegged pants. It all looked comfortable, wearable and modern. Wilbur Pack Jr., the gutsy designer behind SKWilbur sent out six leather or denim looks, inspired by the movie "Gladiator," in front of the Bryant Park tents just before and after Michael Kors’ show.
Brazilian beachwear designer Amir Slama showed a slew of bikinis, maillots and sexy cover-ups for Rosa Cha. And there was something for everyone, as long as you’ve got a bod for sin and a bikini wax to match — and who better to model these than than Naomi Campbell. Turkish designer Atil Kotuglu, inspired by the Whirling Dervishes of his homeland, did ivory mini caftan dresses and organza shirts in varying lengths. Korean designer Haneza whipped up some pretty laser-cut tops and a group of airy, beaded tulle and lace skirts, tops and dresses. Y & Kei featured lots of mother-of-pearl, metal and wood accessories with their line of layered, neutral-toned tops, oversized cotton trousers and denim cargo pants. Meanwhile, three South African designers, Malcolm Kluk, Julian and Clive Rundel, showed collectively as Afridesia with richly toned iridescent taffeta or chiffon dresses, often detailed with lots of crystal or wood beading.Zaldy and Anne Bowen brought in live music for their shows this season. At Zaldy, the audience was treated to a performance by Rufus Wainwright before the designer unveiled his collection of draped jersey tops, silk chiffon dresses and crystal-embellished suede pieces. Meanwhile, a lesser-known, but charming Mark Copely opened for Bowen, who showed a lineup of navy, nude and white dresses with either glass bead, abalone shell or mica details. More enthralling, however, was dreamy Ben Chaplin sitting in the front row.
And finally, 18-year-old designer Esteban Cortazar’s much-anticipated debut collection was a high-wattage event featuring the likes of Ivana Trump, Todd Oldham, Anne McNally and the Hilton sisters. But all the excitement turned out to be a bit premature. The bathing suit-inspired gowns and the draped, twisted chiffon dresses showed promise, but most of the collection resembled a caricature of Miami glamour.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)