TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week is continuing to deliver an intriguing mix of spring-summer fashion, featuring everything from scout uniforms to flowing chiffon dresses and sculptural clothing inspired by birds.
Here, some highlights from the week:
• Jenny Fax designer Shueh Jen-Fang tapped into her memories of boarding school and rolled out takes on classic school uniforms and beauty queens. There were pleated skirts galore, tiaras and princess dresses reminiscent of Disney heroines. But there were plenty of subversive twists as well. Manga illustrations featured prominently, including a set of eyes that appeared on the chest of a few looks.
• Johan Ku is well known for his textured knitwear, and he demonstrated that again this season with amped-up showmanship. His models emerged from backstage looking like alien beings, thanks to special lighting that made his nearly all-white collection glow in the dark. The designer showed what seemed like countless variations on the sweater dress and knit tops in varying textures.
• Shiho Shiroma showed a collection of skin-baring, sensuously feminine dresses in softly flowing chiffon and fluidly draped jersey. Abstract prints in pastel purple, pink, blue and gray mingled with white shirts and layered skirts for a distinctively spring feeling. Shiroma added a modern edge to her designs with athleticwear-inspired details like drawstrings, zippers, metal snaps and hoods, as well as a series of pieces made from raw deerskin in a unique texture created by a metallic foiling process.
• Yoshio Kubo generated a hipster-appropriate men’s collection with influences both beachy and urban. His bottle-blond lads wore a mix of striped tailored wear and colorful boardshorts. A few multicolored knit suits, one with short pants and one with full-length trousers, were particularly eye-catching, as was a shirt with a trompe l’oeil bandana print. Unfortunately, a live band’s rather loud instrumental rock-style jam upstaged much of the proceedings.
• Again this season, Sara Arai mixed Western and Asian influences into a collection that contained an abundance of luxurious fabrics and artful details for her label, Araisara. Silhouettes were soft but sculptural, with round puff sleeves, cascading ruffles, wide pleats and belted waists. Particularly striking were a pair of flyaway chiffon dresses with straps made of patchwork squares of Chinese silk jacquards in silver, gold, white and black.
• Tamae Hirokawa’s spring offering for Somarta was inspired by falcons and thunderbirds, and for a collection that didn’t use a single feather, many pieces accomplished the feat of resembling winged creatures while still remaining wearable. The designer employed an almost Escher-esque geometric design, which was printed on dresses, embroidered onto stiff vests and knitted into fishnet bodysuits. Jackets that came to protruding points at the back recalled birds’ tails, and thin ruffles in chiffon and tissue jersey on necklines, sleeves and hems fluttered like feathers.
• Né-net’s Kazuaki Takashima kept things youthful this season, rolling out scout uniforms, rugby shirts and varsity sweaters with a funky Harry Potter vibe. Patchwork denim and wide trousers gave off a whimsical Seventies feel. One of the more distinctive styles was a pair of pants resembling a miniature jumpsuit with a button-down front and sleeves swinging down from the waist. In a few lighthearted moments, models made their way down the runway with stuffed dogs on leashes and plush hawks on their arms.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty