TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week is continuing to deliver an intriguing mix of spring-summer fashion, featuring everything from scout uniforms to flowing chiffon dresses and sculptural clothing inspired by birds.
Here, some highlights from the week:
• Jenny Fax designer Shueh Jen-Fang tapped into her memories of boarding school and rolled out takes on classic school uniforms and beauty queens. There were pleated skirts galore, tiaras and princess dresses reminiscent of Disney heroines. But there were plenty of subversive twists as well. Manga illustrations featured prominently, including a set of eyes that appeared on the chest of a few looks.
• Johan Ku is well known for his textured knitwear, and he demonstrated that again this season with amped-up showmanship. His models emerged from backstage looking like alien beings, thanks to special lighting that made his nearly all-white collection glow in the dark. The designer showed what seemed like countless variations on the sweater dress and knit tops in varying textures.
• Shiho Shiroma showed a collection of skin-baring, sensuously feminine dresses in softly flowing chiffon and fluidly draped jersey. Abstract prints in pastel purple, pink, blue and gray mingled with white shirts and layered skirts for a distinctively spring feeling. Shiroma added a modern edge to her designs with athleticwear-inspired details like drawstrings, zippers, metal snaps and hoods, as well as a series of pieces made from raw deerskin in a unique texture created by a metallic foiling process.
• Yoshio Kubo generated a hipster-appropriate men’s collection with influences both beachy and urban. His bottle-blond lads wore a mix of striped tailored wear and colorful boardshorts. A few multicolored knit suits, one with short pants and one with full-length trousers, were particularly eye-catching, as was a shirt with a trompe l’oeil bandana print. Unfortunately, a live band’s rather loud instrumental rock-style jam upstaged much of the proceedings.
• Again this season, Sara Arai mixed Western and Asian influences into a collection that contained an abundance of luxurious fabrics and artful details for her label, Araisara. Silhouettes were soft but sculptural, with round puff sleeves, cascading ruffles, wide pleats and belted waists. Particularly striking were a pair of flyaway chiffon dresses with straps made of patchwork squares of Chinese silk jacquards in silver, gold, white and black.
• Tamae Hirokawa’s spring offering for Somarta was inspired by falcons and thunderbirds, and for a collection that didn’t use a single feather, many pieces accomplished the feat of resembling winged creatures while still remaining wearable. The designer employed an almost Escher-esque geometric design, which was printed on dresses, embroidered onto stiff vests and knitted into fishnet bodysuits. Jackets that came to protruding points at the back recalled birds’ tails, and thin ruffles in chiffon and tissue jersey on necklines, sleeves and hems fluttered like feathers.
• Né-net’s Kazuaki Takashima kept things youthful this season, rolling out scout uniforms, rugby shirts and varsity sweaters with a funky Harry Potter vibe. Patchwork denim and wide trousers gave off a whimsical Seventies feel. One of the more distinctive styles was a pair of pants resembling a miniature jumpsuit with a button-down front and sleeves swinging down from the waist. In a few lighthearted moments, models made their way down the runway with stuffed dogs on leashes and plush hawks on their arms.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye