Suave, sophisticated looks rendered with a light hand are undeniably charming -- and so are innocent-looking frills.
Emporio Armani: There's no time like spring for letting in a little fresh air, which is what Giorgio Armani did in his Emporio Armani collection on Monday. His program notes called the look "deliberately casual," which offered more clarification than a post-show press conference, during which the designer offered the bon mot that, "a pantsuit worn by, say, Lauren Bacall, does not look the same when worn by Marilyn Monroe."
What exactly either woman has to do with Emporio matters less than the fact that it did indeed feel delightfully casual after fall's particularly contrived outing. Not that this was a sportif free-for-all. The deliberate element showed up in some still overly zealous styling — dirndl skirts pulled up at the pockets to reveal perfectly cuffed Bermudas. And Armani's fascination with showing in pairs, as if his target audience were a community of elongated Olsens — remains a mystery. But such contrivances aside, the collection boasted plenty of delightful clothes in a newly savvy presentation.
Accent on the plenty. Armani showed 111 looks on 111 models, who moved through the via Manzoni store fast enough to keep you from counting. They went from sailor to chichi and from refined to racy. The preferred silhouettes started with a small top, the volume on the bottom. To that end, there were terrific little jackets, some nipped in, others on the boxy side but still spare, with thick self-braid trim. Then came spiffy sweaters, striped tanks with Art Nouveau cutouts at the waist and a pair of adorable suede vests with crochet edging. These mixed and matched over slouchy trousers, miniskirts and others cut in multiple, floaty tiers.
Evening, too, stayed on the casual side — too much so, in fact, when girls dressed in sheer shawls over skirts looked shamed by want of a proper top. The skin show proved unnecessary, since a sweet black slip showered with tiny flowers looked the best kind of sexy — the wearable kind.
Salvatore Ferragamo: Graeme Black has positioned himself as an even-keeled defender of the polished everywoman this season. And his pared-down look for Salvatore Ferragamo struck a fine chord. It was sophisticated enough for the corporate world, while maintaining an easy femininity.His look was a touch graphic and had a hint of Gatsby, but really timelessness instead of trends ruled the day. Black showed a wealth of soft knits: a polo sweater in graphic cream and black; a lacy, open-work camisole, which was paired with a breezy skirt; a demure knit dress flecked with gold. There were cardigan jackets and even a full-length knit gown. And he took the tailoring nice and easy with fluid pants.
While his show notes called for far-flung exotica — inspiration from Byzantine mosques, the Bosporus, Ottoman villas and the Marmara — Black's suave reality made for a truly welcome trip.
D&G: It's pretty hard to miss the point at a D&G show. When Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana commit to a trend, boy, they don't mess around. And this season was no exception. They showed snowbanks of white frills of the pretty and pure variety. There were corsets with quaint covered buttons, layered lace prairie skirts and filmy gowns banded with ribbon trim. A dreamy pointelle dress oozed Seventies romance, while lacy "Like a Virgin" mini frocks came from the following decade.
Where the designers took a different tactic, however, was in employing a feather-light touch in the styling department. They kept their familiar club vamp at bay, courting instead her wistful cotton-clad sister. And allowing these dewy clothes a little room to breathe gave the line a fresh new look.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye