NEW YORK — When fashion competes with iPods and flat-screen TVs for the consumer’s attention, it takes a little more creativity than usual to emerge a winner.
Several exhibitors at the Atelier Designers, Pacific Designer Collection and Nouveau Collective hotel trade shows this week seem to have taken this point to heart and added creative touches to their designs with hopes to beat the competition, come fall.
“The trends are going increasingly architectural and the shapes are becoming more important, more refined,” said Jill Heppenheimer, co-owner of Santa Fe Weaving Gallery in Santa Fe, N.M., who shopped the Atelier, Designer Pacific and Coterie shows. “Asia and Europe are having more of an influence, which I am happy to see, because it is a more sophisticated look to a lot of what we have seen in the past.”
Trends on tap included boiled-wool coats cut in unusual angles to pleats in unexpected places, tie-dyes, colorful embroidered skirts and textured metallic coats. Retailers and vendors are hopeful that, come fall, these looks will convince consumers to spend more on apparel.
“If it hadn’t been for the week after New Year’s, I would have said it was a miserable fourth quarter, but in the end, the consumers showed up and spent money,” Heppenheimer said. “I read that people are buying electronics and not apparel, and if they are buying apparel, it’s much more disposable. They are not wardrobe building.”
Stacy Esser, vice president of sales at Bill Burns, an exhibitor at Nouveau Collective, agreed. “I am consistently told that the fourth quarter was tough,” she said. “There just wasn’t enough traffic and people were spending more on iPods and flat screens, which hurt apparel.”
For the most part, many of the smaller labels at these shows catered to niche retailers, which ranged from mom-and-pop boutiques to arts-and-crafts specialty stores nationwide.
“There were some new stores, and a lot of the regular stores came,” said designer Ann McKenna, whose knitwear company is based in Larkspur, Calif. “It’s not like it was before Sept. 11, but I feel it’s coming back. Florida stores seem to be doing really well, and that’s a good sign of things coming back.”
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"