This season in Milan, some designers chose to play with polar opposite themes (read: Giorgio Armani and Burberry Prorsum), or they showed new moods and motifs (think Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi or Alberta Ferretti). Critics found the collections lackluster, but retailers noted that "women, tired of girly or overly ornamental frocks, are ready for Milan's clean lines, high-tech fabric innovations and slimmer silhouettes,' WWD reported. Buyers said that the collections were packed with "statement-making outerwear, fabulous furs, form-fitting dresses and fantastic accessories.' Dolce & Gabbana took the top spot, as it did a year ago in Milan. In all, Milan Fashion Week garnered 53 million page views on Style.com, a 51 percent increase over last year.
DOLCE & GABBANA Page views: 2,205,266
Gisele Bündchen opened Dolce & Gabbana's show — an homage to the "Metallic Woman" — striding in wearing a tight-fitting, futuristic dress. Although the designers went heavy on metallics and sparkle, they also countered with plenty of black, tailored looks, such as their wearable dresses and lean suit combinations.
PRADA Page views: 2,070,529
Defined as "fake classic" by Miuccia Prada herself, the fall Prada collection included simple silhouettes, shift and sack dresses, along with shell-and-skirt motifs. Hardly mundane, however. She also worked with weighty fabrics of wild colors, such as bluish pink, orange and emerald green. WWD deemed the collection a "confounding manipulation of classics."
BURBERRY PRORSUM Page views: 1,892,244
Christopher Bailey's dark medieval motif was emphasized by a number of brilliant pieces, especially his outerwear grouping: He sent out structured belted coats made of wool and showed off stadium jackets and bold parkas. In addition, Bailey mixed moody knits with short skirts and matched bustier dresses over skinny Ts.
VERSACE Page views: 1,842,501
It's a more polite side of sexy for Donatella Versace this fall, and the transition was flawless. Models donning berets, egg-shaped silhouettes and billowing pieces showed off a sultry elegance. She also showed an impressive array of dresses and suits in a mix of tweeds and wool, while evening silk dresses contained embellishments of square embroideries and chains.GUCCI Page views: 1,691,793
Frida Giannini's fall collection had a Forties ring to it. Models evoked the actress Veronica Lake and pieces such as assorted aviator looks, retro knickers and mile-high boots represented the collection well. Giannini countered this jaunty side with "pretty silk dresses in a bluebell print derived from an unused pattern she discovered in the archives," WWD reported.
MARNI Page views: 1,688,796
Consuelo Castiglioni's fall collection included "plenty of cool-girl house favorites: roomy tunic dresses, cocoon shapes cinched at the waist and stiff, full coats and jackets," WWD said. Fur showed up everywhere in the collection, as well, from shrugs to mittens to trimming along various pieces.
GIORGIO ARMANI Page views: 1,298,854
Two different sides of Giorgio Armani's personality were revealed in his collection for fall: The ultrafeminine side was characterized by bubble skirts, embroidered tops, metallic skirts and belted dresses, while his devilish side showed off printed knot-front jackets, thick patent belts and glittered sleeves secured with arm garters.
D&G Page views: 1,138,290
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed off a nice mixture of retail-ready wear, including the floral-print blouses and metallic knits, against more daring pieces, like the oversized patent leather bags, black velvet pantsuits and flirty minidresses. They also spread what they call their signature leopard print throughout the collection.
BOTTEGA VENETA Page views: 1,055,271
Working in blush, coral, crimson and flesh tones, Tomas Maier sent out plenty of pretty looks, including day dresses of wool crepe and cashmere, a wool crepe suit jacket and flirtatious full-skirted suits. Evening's inspiration, "Puritan sensibilities come undone," came undone just right in the form of a black bustier gown over filmy nude veiling.
FENDI Page views: 1,030,158
"Bye-bye, space cadet!" WWD said. "Karl Lagerfeld has found your replacement, a girl who revels in earthly delights." Lagerfeld moved away from metallics and shine for fall and focused on gorgeous fur combinations. He cinched short fur coats at the waist, added fur to his handbags and even sprouted fur from the sleeves of his creations.ALBERTA FERRETTI Page views: 1,023,113
Breaking away from her angelic side, Alberta Ferretti ventured down a darker road for fall. She went oversized and heavy on her embellishments, showing huge black beads on collars and cuffs, along with ostrich feathers on coats. Her signature frothy silk dresses were still in abundance, however — this time, they came out strapless and more fitted.
ROBERTO CAVALLI Page views: 974,903
With Sharon Stone cheering from the front row, Roberto Cavalli's wares showed plenty of sex appeal, including lace coats and silk day dresses with lots of pattern, plunge and drape. "And for when the sun goes down," WWD said, "it was all shine in their gold, beaded, haltered, ruched and zipped glory."
MISSONI Page views: 962,086
Angela Missoni chose to work the softer side of confident for fall, showing off a subdued palette against loose cardigans, easy blazers, knee-length skirts and relaxed trousers. She went curvy with her dresses, adding knits, patterns and bold colors.
JIL SANDER Page views: 907,337
Raf Simons' Jil Sander collection for fall "was as beautiful as it was exacting," WWD said. Building on last season's strong lineup, Simons utilized a palette of blues, purples, bronze and metallics and sent out sleek dresses with vertical darts or knotted necklines — other standouts included savvy pants matched with capes or sleek jackets.
EMPORIO ARMANI Page views: 844,524
Proclaiming in his notes, "Change is in the air," Giorgio Armani sent out draped skirts, A-line silhouettes and baby-doll dresses for fall — all in an Easter egg-hued palette. He also worked to loosen up tailored looks by showing flared jackets and baggy coats.
BLUMARINE Page views: 832,670
Embellished velvet and silk charmeuse dresses, slim darted skirts and draped gowns were on tap for Anna Molinari's Blumarine collection for fall. She threw in other features, as well, such as the ballooned sleeves, leopard prints, opera-length gloves and floral brocades, all for good measure.EMILIO PUCCI Page views: 744,690
The House of Pucci is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, and for fall, Matthew Williamson chose to mix subdued, Modish looks together with wildly embellished ones. He started with the simple color-blocked dress and cleanly cut coat (done up in tangerine and pomegranate hues), and then came the rug tassels, allover sequins and suede fringes.
JUST CAVALLI Page views: 726,076
Roberto Cavalli's more affordable, denim-heavy line breaks into the top 20. This particular collection oozed a dark, sci-fi motif. He sent out paneled black leather jackets and superskinny pants, and his glossy silver jumpsuit contained sequins all over. Knits and furs were voluminous, as were his bubble skirts.
MOSCHINO Page views: 685,558
Though Rossella Jardini framed the back of the Moschino runway with a huge peace sign, there wasn't necessarily much hippie-ness to the collection. The clothes were all wearable, including the gold jacquard coat, the cropped cardigan, some cozy furs and a sassy cocktail dress.
ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA Page views: 624,354
Alessandro Dell'Acqua dropped from 16th place last season but still made the top 20. The designer called his collection, "Body of Evidence with anatomical protections and ergonomic cuts." He played with knitwear and also worked in peekaboo slits and graphic cutouts to dresses.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)