This season in Milan, some designers chose to play with polar opposite themes (read: Giorgio Armani and Burberry Prorsum), or they showed new moods and motifs (think Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi or Alberta Ferretti). Critics found the collections lackluster, but retailers noted that "women, tired of girly or overly ornamental frocks, are ready for Milan's clean lines, high-tech fabric innovations and slimmer silhouettes,' WWD reported. Buyers said that the collections were packed with "statement-making outerwear, fabulous furs, form-fitting dresses and fantastic accessories.' Dolce & Gabbana took the top spot, as it did a year ago in Milan. In all, Milan Fashion Week garnered 53 million page views on Style.com, a 51 percent increase over last year.
DOLCE & GABBANA Page views: 2,205,266
Gisele Bündchen opened Dolce & Gabbana's show — an homage to the "Metallic Woman" — striding in wearing a tight-fitting, futuristic dress. Although the designers went heavy on metallics and sparkle, they also countered with plenty of black, tailored looks, such as their wearable dresses and lean suit combinations.
PRADA Page views: 2,070,529
Defined as "fake classic" by Miuccia Prada herself, the fall Prada collection included simple silhouettes, shift and sack dresses, along with shell-and-skirt motifs. Hardly mundane, however. She also worked with weighty fabrics of wild colors, such as bluish pink, orange and emerald green. WWD deemed the collection a "confounding manipulation of classics."
BURBERRY PRORSUM Page views: 1,892,244
Christopher Bailey's dark medieval motif was emphasized by a number of brilliant pieces, especially his outerwear grouping: He sent out structured belted coats made of wool and showed off stadium jackets and bold parkas. In addition, Bailey mixed moody knits with short skirts and matched bustier dresses over skinny Ts.
VERSACE Page views: 1,842,501
It's a more polite side of sexy for Donatella Versace this fall, and the transition was flawless. Models donning berets, egg-shaped silhouettes and billowing pieces showed off a sultry elegance. She also showed an impressive array of dresses and suits in a mix of tweeds and wool, while evening silk dresses contained embellishments of square embroideries and chains.GUCCI Page views: 1,691,793
Frida Giannini's fall collection had a Forties ring to it. Models evoked the actress Veronica Lake and pieces such as assorted aviator looks, retro knickers and mile-high boots represented the collection well. Giannini countered this jaunty side with "pretty silk dresses in a bluebell print derived from an unused pattern she discovered in the archives," WWD reported.
MARNI Page views: 1,688,796
Consuelo Castiglioni's fall collection included "plenty of cool-girl house favorites: roomy tunic dresses, cocoon shapes cinched at the waist and stiff, full coats and jackets," WWD said. Fur showed up everywhere in the collection, as well, from shrugs to mittens to trimming along various pieces.
GIORGIO ARMANI Page views: 1,298,854
Two different sides of Giorgio Armani's personality were revealed in his collection for fall: The ultrafeminine side was characterized by bubble skirts, embroidered tops, metallic skirts and belted dresses, while his devilish side showed off printed knot-front jackets, thick patent belts and glittered sleeves secured with arm garters.
D&G Page views: 1,138,290
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed off a nice mixture of retail-ready wear, including the floral-print blouses and metallic knits, against more daring pieces, like the oversized patent leather bags, black velvet pantsuits and flirty minidresses. They also spread what they call their signature leopard print throughout the collection.
BOTTEGA VENETA Page views: 1,055,271
Working in blush, coral, crimson and flesh tones, Tomas Maier sent out plenty of pretty looks, including day dresses of wool crepe and cashmere, a wool crepe suit jacket and flirtatious full-skirted suits. Evening's inspiration, "Puritan sensibilities come undone," came undone just right in the form of a black bustier gown over filmy nude veiling.
FENDI Page views: 1,030,158
"Bye-bye, space cadet!" WWD said. "Karl Lagerfeld has found your replacement, a girl who revels in earthly delights." Lagerfeld moved away from metallics and shine for fall and focused on gorgeous fur combinations. He cinched short fur coats at the waist, added fur to his handbags and even sprouted fur from the sleeves of his creations.ALBERTA FERRETTI Page views: 1,023,113
Breaking away from her angelic side, Alberta Ferretti ventured down a darker road for fall. She went oversized and heavy on her embellishments, showing huge black beads on collars and cuffs, along with ostrich feathers on coats. Her signature frothy silk dresses were still in abundance, however — this time, they came out strapless and more fitted.
ROBERTO CAVALLI Page views: 974,903
With Sharon Stone cheering from the front row, Roberto Cavalli's wares showed plenty of sex appeal, including lace coats and silk day dresses with lots of pattern, plunge and drape. "And for when the sun goes down," WWD said, "it was all shine in their gold, beaded, haltered, ruched and zipped glory."
MISSONI Page views: 962,086
Angela Missoni chose to work the softer side of confident for fall, showing off a subdued palette against loose cardigans, easy blazers, knee-length skirts and relaxed trousers. She went curvy with her dresses, adding knits, patterns and bold colors.
JIL SANDER Page views: 907,337
Raf Simons' Jil Sander collection for fall "was as beautiful as it was exacting," WWD said. Building on last season's strong lineup, Simons utilized a palette of blues, purples, bronze and metallics and sent out sleek dresses with vertical darts or knotted necklines — other standouts included savvy pants matched with capes or sleek jackets.
EMPORIO ARMANI Page views: 844,524
Proclaiming in his notes, "Change is in the air," Giorgio Armani sent out draped skirts, A-line silhouettes and baby-doll dresses for fall — all in an Easter egg-hued palette. He also worked to loosen up tailored looks by showing flared jackets and baggy coats.
BLUMARINE Page views: 832,670
Embellished velvet and silk charmeuse dresses, slim darted skirts and draped gowns were on tap for Anna Molinari's Blumarine collection for fall. She threw in other features, as well, such as the ballooned sleeves, leopard prints, opera-length gloves and floral brocades, all for good measure.EMILIO PUCCI Page views: 744,690
The House of Pucci is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, and for fall, Matthew Williamson chose to mix subdued, Modish looks together with wildly embellished ones. He started with the simple color-blocked dress and cleanly cut coat (done up in tangerine and pomegranate hues), and then came the rug tassels, allover sequins and suede fringes.
JUST CAVALLI Page views: 726,076
Roberto Cavalli's more affordable, denim-heavy line breaks into the top 20. This particular collection oozed a dark, sci-fi motif. He sent out paneled black leather jackets and superskinny pants, and his glossy silver jumpsuit contained sequins all over. Knits and furs were voluminous, as were his bubble skirts.
MOSCHINO Page views: 685,558
Though Rossella Jardini framed the back of the Moschino runway with a huge peace sign, there wasn't necessarily much hippie-ness to the collection. The clothes were all wearable, including the gold jacquard coat, the cropped cardigan, some cozy furs and a sassy cocktail dress.
ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA Page views: 624,354
Alessandro Dell'Acqua dropped from 16th place last season but still made the top 20. The designer called his collection, "Body of Evidence with anatomical protections and ergonomic cuts." He played with knitwear and also worked in peekaboo slits and graphic cutouts to dresses.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion