And wait and wait and wait, in the case of Marc Jacobs' fall show. Editors, retailers and Hollywood starlets — A to C list alike — grumbled, sweated and seethed through a 90-minute delay at the designer's presentation Feb. 7. He'd been late before, but this was a whole new level of tardiness. Jacobs then galvanized the crowd by sending out a collection that many considered to be his boldest stroke since the grunge presentation shook up New York's fashion foundation in 1993.
Some heralded Jacobs' study in volume and broody aesthetic as a major directional change for him, and also one sure to send influential ripples throughout the industry. But already irate about the delay, some didn't necessarily buy into that. Undeniably, though, however people reacted to the show — with glee or outrage — they felt passionately so. While Bergdorf Goodman's Robert Burke thought it was a "brilliant" collection, another retailer sniped, "It looked like clothes for ‘The Addams Family.'"
Realizing that some sort of response to the subsequent media maelstrom was due, Jacobs posted an apology of sorts on marcjacobs.com within 48 hours. "The Marc Jacobs spring-summer 2006 collection show will be held Sept. 12 at 9 p.m. Please be advised the show is running approximately 1 1/2 hours late." The company's president, Robert Duffy, further elaborated that they meant no disrespect. "We felt bad and are sorry," he told WWD. "I thought, let's lighten up a little bit."
But still, Jacobs' show sparked a fashion powder keg. Was the show system out of control with celebs edging out industry people for front-row tickets, tardy starts and a congested lineup? Or do editors, buyers and retailers need to just shut up and do their job regardless of the inconvenience? In an interview with WWDThe Magazine, Jacobs stood his ground. "I moan and I complain about the things I don't like to do, too. But I do them," he said. "I can't manipulate the entire calendar just to weasel my way out of things that are responsibilities and obligations."
Nobody was complaining in mid-March, though, when Jacobs threw a major bash to inaugurate a collection boutique and Marc by Marc Jacobs door in Los Angeles, 3,500 square feet and 2,500 square feet, respectively. To herald the occasion, Hollywood's finest mingled with Jacobs' New York chums at the fete, festooned with 600,000 fresh roses. A week later, Jacobs jetted down to Florida to christen a Bal Harbour site. But why stop there? By yearend, a Las Vegas door would be opened, and plans solidified for San Francisco and London stores in 2006.When September's fall fashion week rolled into town, those same people who groused their way through the spring show held their collective breath, waiting to see if there would be a repeat in both wait time and design impact. Jacobs seemed to gamble against himself, as if saying: "I'll see my amazing fashion show, and raise myself one with the Penn State marching band."
To boot, he pushed the show from 9 p.m. to 8 p.m., a time slot that he stuck to — more or less. (Starting at 8.30 p.m., his was one of the most on-time shows of the week.) It was a thoroughly de-prissed, structured take on American chic, furthering spring's volume and somber motif and throwing in a little of his favorite muse: the school girl gone bad. She and Jacobs make a great pair — they'll always do things their way.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)