A whimsical, slightly brooding attitude set the tone for the start of fashion week, as designers sent out easy looks in dark and neutral shades.
Ports 1961: A pragmatic shopper might think she really only needs a few cashmere staples: a sweater, a wrap, a coat, a couple of scarfs. But Tia Cibani, creative director of Ports 1961, is out to change that idea, and she made a good argument with her fall collection. How about a sweats-style skirt in heather gray, a chunky strapless frock in winter white or an oversized loose nude dress with a subtly bubbled hem? Add to these a parade of louche tapered pants in calming neutrals and those charming cropped sweaters and jackets, and voilà, you're officially cuckoo for cashmere. But fashion isn't just about a cozy, chic knit, and Cibani did branch out with tweed jackets and skirts and a handful of satin dresses — the prettiest being a velvet-trimmed sage floral topped with a darling nubby gray coat. Yet she went ever slightly too far, adding tricky details like tulle bustles under cardigans and coats and knit cummerbunds to looks that would have been lovely as is.
Réyes: José Ramón Reyes has taken his preppy prototype from spring and given her some major chic for fall. This time, he snuck into Margot Tenenbaum's closet and emerged with 40 covetable looks that perfectly tapped into her wasted-luxe look, an effortless mix of sophistication and "I don't care" élan. But rather than present a literal interpretation of the subversive mink- and tennis dress-wearing Margot, he reenvisioned her as a girl who has a regular day job and a busy social schedule. He offered a slew of sweet silk blouses with tuxedo-style pleated details paired with either skin-tight piped pants and pencil skirts or loose pleated men's wear-style trousers. The palette was dark and moody in gray, black and deep purple with a few cream stripes — a prep motif he carried through on knit sweaters and vests. But lest things got too serious, outerwear was a witty take on the Members Only jacket from the Eighties, done here as tan nylon puffers with fox-trimmed hoods and seersucker linings. Reyes also successfully segued into formal eveningwear with understated, fluid silk gowns. It was a great effort from a young talent who deserves a spot on the retail radar.Elie Tahari: Having unveiled his blueprint for building a billion-dollar company within five years, Elie Tahari started fashion week off with a capsule showroom presentation that indicated just how serious he is about his increasingly high-end aspirations. While his new growth plan puts a major focus on accessories — he's most proud of the filigree patterns etched into heels and printed on soles — Tahari certainly didn't ignore the clothes. "This is an era of luxury," he said. "As much as we want to dress down, we've reached the peak of the bottom." So here were the fur pieces and detailed hardware that push prices up, up and up. He played with themes, painting whispery blouses and skirts into an opulent Venetian picture with brocade, chiffon and lace, while giving smart outerwear a military touch. Romantic skirts and dresses — done up in every manner of velvet — were tempered most often with a structured jacket, while furs, especially sheared mink, made numerous appearances as boleros and coats. Fall is a pretty, decorated affair, which will give Tahari's customer options — wear it all for a decorative head-to-toe finish or pick just one piece to dress up a pair of jeans.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty