Marc Jacobs: "I'm furious," Marc Jacobs said the night before his show, grousing again about the early calendar. "And I don't know who to be mad at." Jacobs might as well have been talking about the collection he would show on Monday, as it, too, was furious — a furious explosion of ebullient fashion delivered in a blatant treatise on latter-day grunge.
One could argue that with the world in turmoil, the timing is perfect for such a display, but runway politicking has never been Jacobs' forte. Nevertheless, the moment Karen Elson emerged to open the show, her pregnancy barely apparent under a girlish mossy green smock, the mood just felt right, the ladylike fluff elsewhere turning anemic in comparison. The muse here was a flesh-and-blood relative of last fall's Violet Incredible, a girl ready to direct her pent-up angst at no one in particular. Yet — and this is where Jacobs has always diverged from genuinely angry designers — the edge is never truly aggressive. Even at their least frilly, Jacobs' collections always have a glimmer of optimism; he doesn't do hard. To him, the moody palette and endless layers were about the realities of dressing for cold weather in a modern, casual way, and for all the dissonance of multiple textures and patterns, in the end, cozy trumped combative. Still, there's no question that since the huge success of his girly tweeds awhile back, Jacobs has focused on de-prettying his lineup.
He showed against a stunning skyline set, conceived and constructed in under a week by Stefan Beckman, to the mesmerizing serenity of Philip Glass music. His girls wore piles of stuff, from their overgrown sequined berets and fur hats down to those demonized, late-arriving shoes; in fact, this collection had as much going on from the knees down as some others do head-to-toe. And it featured more references than Funk & Wagnalls: "It's all the designers I love, the people I know, all tossed together," Jacobs said. For starters, read Rei Kawakubo, Yves Saint Laurent, and the great sportswear pioneers of Seventh Avenue, along with Sofia, Winona and Rachael. There were jackets over sweaters over dresses over pants over thick legwarmers over lacy leggings and on and on, each look revealing surprises upon discretion. For example, along with the delicate dishevelment of filmy black gowns, Jacobs also cut evening columns from murky wool plaid. Coats came half fur and half wool; tony knits trailed extravagant appendages; tunics and skirts took shape from seemingly random knots. And there were bags, bags, bags, because emergency skylines don't come cheap.Once again, this collection triggered wildly differing opinions, as some in the audience found all the stuff too much. But sometimes too much is wonderful, especially when the individual pieces are so exquisite. Still, one vocal critic saw room for improvement. "I'm still mad," Jacobs said back at the Armory on Tuesday before his Marc by Marc Jacobs show. "With more time, it could have been better."
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews