Revillon: Qu’est ce que c’est? And that’s only one of the questions raised by the collection designed by L.A. fashion darling Rick Owens in his Revillon debut. Among the others: Is the time right to revive a once-flourishing fur label that has languished to near nothingness, and is a designer known for antifashion tatters the right practitioner to administer such fashion CPR?

Four months ago, when Owens signed on as creative director of the legendary furrier, no one expected him to transform into a glitz-loving Dennis Basso wannabe. Yet one might have anticipated that Owens would develop something resembling, well, a fur collection. But then, perhaps such an assumption amounts merely to a critic’s parochial vision. As the designer indicated last week, the house’s recent weakness and long-term lack of a major designer presence have left him with no iconography to shatter, which he considers a plus. “My assignment is to create the identity,” he said.

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