By  on February 4, 2006

NEW YORK — These days, fashion designers rarely walk in lockstep. But if everyone designs to the beat of his or her drummer, there are also trends that are addressed en masse when they run their course. Ornamentation could be one of them. All those flourishes on jeans and jackets, handbags and hems, might end up looking like yesteryear's shoulder pads if designers aren't careful.

Clearly, there's an appetite for polished, pulled-together clothes. Some characterized the new look for fall as grown-up, refined and pared-down. Others described a new sensuality that will eclipse embellishment. This could prove to be a pivotal season for pants with waists moving higher, belts getting wider and jeans tighter — as if that were possible. Dark indigo and black are the new washes, and practicality be damned, they'll be shown with stilettos. In general, retailers seem to be looking for class over flash, and tailoring and dressmaking details rather than tricked-out gimmicks. But no one wants to lose the charm — that je ne sais quois — that makes a collection engaging.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York

What I'd like to see during New York Fashion Week: Fewer celebrities. It's not that it is annoying having celebrities at fashion shows, it's actually great for the designers. It's just too much frenzy created by the photographers.

What I'm expecting to see: More photographers.

People are buzzing about: Barneys' live fashion presentation in the window on Monday at 11:30 of Tara Subkoff's new collection of denim for Imitation of Christ. We promise no seating hassle. I also can't wait to see Trovata, winners of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Award, and I'm so happy that Daryl K is doing something. Of course, all the Ecco Domani winners will be interesting and Marc Jacobs is always a must-see.

Changes I'm anticipating: I'm ready to see complex clothes that look beautiful and are more pared down. The best collections will be ones that concentrate on the craft of making clothes with great quality and tailoring.

Open-to-buy: Is ready to rock!

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