By  on February 5, 2005

All hail New York.

Those sputtering sounds are sparks of electricity emanating from fashion week in Manhattan. There’s a tangible sense of anticipation and creativity that’s been lacking some past seasons, observers say. Even the French have noticed. Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager for women’s fashion at Printemps, the French department store chain, said, “New York has become a fashion week that matters. It’s been getting more creative and I’ve noticed a super evolution recently toward more exciting fashion.”

After years of hardly carrying any brands that show in New York, Printemps recently added Marc Jacobs, Theory, Roland Mouret, Proenza Schouler and Matthew Williamson.

WWD asked some other retailers about their hopes and fears for fall 2005. Here’s what they said:

Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York

Runway shows I’m most looking forward to seeing: It is a tie. Narciso Rodriguez, because his collections are always an evolution of his aesthetic and every time, without fault, beautifully executed. Marc Jacobs, because he always exudes this great energy in his clothes and his show that makes you happy.

The look or trend I’ll like to see retired: Moon boots should go away.

People have been buzzing about: Thakoon.

What I think I’ll see this season: Great clothes. I feel positive. New York has a great vibe and lots of talent, both old and new. I am looking forward to seeing the Future Fashion show on Feb. 8, where a lot of designers made clothes from environmentally sustainable fabrics. Challenging, but cool.

What I’d like to see more of: Good clothes that customers can easily wear and buy and, most importantly, designs that push the norm because in six months, those are the things that are going to seem really interesting.

Haru Suzuki, fashion merchandiser, Barneys Japan

Runway shows I’m most looking forward to seeing: Derek Lam. The brand’s elegant and feminine details are contemporary and it has uniqueness as one of the New York brands. I also want to see Wyeth, Development and LoyandFord. They’re able to show fresh collections of real clothes and their direction is unique. Thakoon has a unique styling that’s a perfect marriage between delicate details such as silk, satin and embroidery and natural finishing.

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