The Pleasure Principle – Gucci, Moschino and DSquared
Alessandra Facchinetti created a very sexy Gucci collection with Fordian elements…Rosella Jardini’s Moschino had plenty of joie de mode…and Dean and Dan Caten’s DSquared line mixed vixen looks with some grown-up clothes.
Gucci: Alessandra Facchinetti did what she had to do. Whatever nerves the newly ascended Gucci designer may have felt in the days and weeks leading up to her maiden performance for the house, backstage on Thursday she seemed utterly cool and in control. But she must have felt the eyes of the fashion world upon her. After all the speculation, hype and dust-settling, she was about to publicly assume the mantle of one of the most successful designers of the last decade, whose final show was his best ever.
Facchinetti’s mandate was clear and specific from the start: to carry on at Gucci along the course established by Tom Ford. She started in the circular foyer of the show space at the hotel Diana Majestic where, instead of filling colossal urns with flowers, she had myriad orchids dripping from the center chandelier. Inside, the high-polish runway also looked very Fordian.
“I believe in [the Gucci look],” Facchinetti said during a visit to New York this summer. “I love Gucci. I love how it was before.” And while acknowledging the likelihood of a natural seasonal progression, she added, “that doesn’t mean that the woman is someone else. She’s still the same.”
The customer is the same, but the designer is not. Before the show, Facchinetti said her aim was to continue the deeply ingrained Gucci attitude established by Ford while making her first collection “less schematic, with a more real element.” Certainly the clothes retained that essential take-no-prisoners sexuality, as well as some familiar silhouettes. Facchinetti took very specific house standards and worked them her way — a move that should please retailers who may have worried about a sea change unsettling to consumers. Thus, the small jackets, low-slung pants and corseted constructions all got ample play. There were also super sexed-up, barely-there swimsuits, and even a sprinkle from above — tiny sparkles rather than rose petals — to announce the arrival of the racy evening section. Throughout, many of the clothes looked quite strong, and they clearly sent the message that, for now, at least, an aesthetic revolution is not part of the Gucci game plan. As for the accessories, while none of Frida Giannini’s newly softened shoulder bags leapt off the runway, they were lovely enough, as were the gold sandals with pebbled heels.Nevertheless, Facchinetti tried to pick up where Ford left off, and at times her ambition exceeded her experience. Her more complicated cuts — the kind it took Ford years to work up to — simply lacked that all-important Gucci polish. The other big point of departure: In her decision to avoid a major theme, Facchinetti probably made the right choice. But this made for a catch-22 of sorts, since much of the power of Ford’s work lay in the gutsy, over-arching statement he put forth each season.
With probably the toughest collection of her young career behind her, Facchinetti has begun the difficult task of establishing herself as a major industry force in her own right. In the meantime, she has served her house and its customers well under extraordinarily difficult circumstances.
Moschino: At some houses, joie de mode is not a trend, but a way of life. That’s the case at Moschino, where fueling fun through fashion — and then breaking the yucks down into smart, wearable pieces — has always been a core belief. Yet, within that philosophy, there’s plenty of range, and in the collection creative director Rosella Jardini showed on Thursday, she played down the overt jokes while emphasizing a joyful, feminine spirit.
The key look was a gypsy-Fifties starlet hybrid filled with bold prints, swishing skirts and bright white petticoats. These came layered, corseted and beribboned, sometimes finished off with charming sequined capelets and faux couture hats perched just so. There were ample digressions along the way, such as a waitress and matador, both ruffled up, and even a pretty Gibson girl in just her camisole and floor-sweeping slip. Some of these looks got witty animal appliqués, and virtually everything was decorated somehow, but seldom past the point of wearability. And in the midst of all the fluff and flowers, Jardini managed to work in just enough smart tailored pieces to remind her audience that Moschino goes both ways. Now that’s good, smart fun.
DSquared: There are so many reasons to want to dislike a DSquared show. First, there’s the crush at the door — good luck getting in. If you manage that, good luck getting your seat, because this is the only show in town where gate-crashers and sycophants sit, while note-taking editors are often banished to the floor. But that’s how scrappy designer twins Dean and Dan Caten like it. Creating a buzz with their over-the-top spectacles complete with major sets — this time a Malibu beach house pool included — and showing a sexed-up doppelgänger version of every serious look is their modus operandi.The twins delivered plenty of what they are known for. A sharp dark denim high-waisted suit stitched in silver or the baby blue cotton tuxedo were both perfect for any “Charlie’s Angels”-era Farrah wannabe. Neon bikinis, shrunken macs in yellow or apple green, tarted-up cowgirl looks and derriere-baring minidresses are all staples at this house. The real news came in the form of some surprisingly grown-up fare, such as the embroidered caftan slit down the front. And how about those evening looks? A sea foam, chocolate, and grape cut-out gown, or a long-sleeved crystal minidress with a draped back à la Gucci looked good. It’s nice to see these boys grow up a bit. We just wish their audience would, too.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)