Boudicca: Design duo Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach, cult favorites in their native England, hopped over the pond to show on the New York runways this season, forgoing London’s fashion week. The move is part of their plan to...
Boudicca: Design duo Brian Kirkby and Zowie Broach, cult favorites in their native England, hopped over the pond to show on the New York runways this season, forgoing London’s fashion week. The move is part of their plan to expose their avant-garde luxury label, Boudicca, to a larger, more international audience.
Kirkby and Broach showed an almost entirely black fall collection, which benefitted from the straightforward presentation. Their sharp tailoring was seen in well-cut jackets and skirts, sometimes tonally embroidered with words like “forever,” or sporting delicate lace overlay. A welcome dose of color came in a featherweight metallic purple silk top, cut with 18th-century-style sleeves. And for anyone who missed that great black leather puffy bomber that flew out of Barneys New York a few seasons ago, there was a new version in caramel floral-embossed leather. With their deftly-cut pieces and modern-gothic sensibility, Kirkby and Broach should find plenty more fans here.
Costello Tagliapietra: Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra are faithful to one woman — the Jersey Girl. No, not someone of dubious fashion sense hailing from across the Hudson, but one who only wears jersey: silk jersey, lace jersey, wool jersey, you-name-it jersey. The Ecco Domani-winning team worked it beautifully in a stream of heather gray, red and taupe dresses and skirts that swung gently around the body, but that one look has its limits. While there’s a lot to be said for having focus, Costello and Tagliapietra must broaden their scope to prove that their label isn’t a one-idea wonder. After all, there is life beyond jersey.
Twinkle by Wenlan Chia: Whether it’s a lightweight cardigan, a chunky vest or a merino wool bud jacket, Wenlan Chia’s knits have it all — fabulous construction, wonderful patterns and a bright, easy color scheme that consisted of lavender, chocolate brown and coral. In this collection, Chia took her knits one step further, venturing from sweater territory into coats. They looked good over lovely herringbone-print silk and chiffon dresses. Chia’s ensembles are for the youthful, sophisticated woman who doesn’t mind a girly look on occasion. Next time, we’d like to see the designer take a few more risks and not play it so safe and sweet.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"