A call for unity and cooperation came loud and clear from Mario Boselli, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, during a news conference Thursday to introduce Milan’s fashion week, which kicks off Saturday and runs until Oct....
A call for unity and cooperation came loud and clear from Mario Boselli, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, during a news conference Thursday to introduce Milan’s fashion week, which kicks off Saturday and runs until Oct. 3.
Boselli said total revenues for the fashion industry are expected to climb 2.5 percent by the end of the year to $83.69 billion (or 69.74 billion euros at current exchange), compared with last year — which was generally considered fashion’s annus horribilis. In 2003, the sector reported a 4.3 percent drop in revenues from 2002. “We must all work together and promote fashion around the world, cooperating with other excellent industries, such as design and food,” said Boselli, noting that exports are still weak. “A sign of recovery came late in the year and is still far from being extended to all divisions: the leather and textile sectors were still suffering midyear, while apparel reacted better and faster to an improvement of the macroeconomic climate, up 5 percent in the second trimester.”
Well into 2005, a weak U.S. dollar will remain the big stumbling block for Italy’s exports, he added.
Milan’s fashion week lists 219 collections: These include runway shows (see calendar, page 14) and other presentations. Boselli said 1,600 journalists are expected from 50 countries.
The following houses will hold their first runway shows during fashion week: Collection Privèe, designed by Massimo Bizzi; Debora Sinibaldi, a former designer at Gianfranco Ferré and consultant at Celine; Gibò, under the creative direction of the Japanese designer Ichiro Seta — Gibò was previously designed by Julie Verhoeven and showed in London; from Spain and Greece, respectively, designers Agatha Ruiz de la Prada and Angelos Frentzos, who showed his men’s collection in June here. Absent from the runways since February 2001, Ter et Bantine, now under the Mariella Burani Fashion Group umbrella, will show Oct. 2. The line is designed by Manuela Arcari.
Of note during the week: “Frozen,” an exhibition of photos by Scottish photographer Albert Watson; a photo exhibition by Gerard Malanga at Carla Sozzani’s gallery, and an exhibition of footwear designs by Andy Warhol at the city’s Triennale museum. These are part of Luigino Rossi’s private collection. Rossi heads Rossimoda, a footwear maker under LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which is opening a showroom in Milan as well. Rossi, a pop art collector and friend of Warhol, will also display other Warhol paintings and a selection of vintage footwear, ranging from Yves Saint Laurent to Ungaro and Fendi at the showroom debut.Another venerable footwear company, René Caovilla, will open its first store with a cocktail party on Via Bagutta, off Via Montenapoleone, on Sept. 29. Decorated with Caovilla’s personal 18th-century Venetian sofas and tapestries, glittering chandeliers, antique rugs, a Christo painting and Chinese vases, Caovilla said, “A minimalist decor would not suit our shoes,” referring to the jewel-encrusted stilettos displayed on a table covered by gold leaves and surrounded by an ostrich-hide frame or in a large Louis Vuitton-style trunk made with eel skin and lined in satin.
Valextra and Ralph Lauren will officially open their new boutiques here during the week. And while keeping mum on details, Hogan is planning a film-related extravaganza.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion