This spring, remember these three words: slim, prim and trim. The season bears the hallmark of simple chic in neutral hues — with just a dash of color.
Temperly London: Girly girls have reason to rejoice. Alice Temperly, a favorite of London's social set, has jumped the pond with her saccharin concoctions in tow. The designer has a unique sense when it comes to dressmaking, often showing crocheted and bold intarsia. For spring, those intarsia numbers were done up in a color-blocked Mayan motif, comprising black, rose and aubergine, while crocheted inserts sweetened up some pale Empire-waisted gowns and dresses. A couple of rainbow-striped pieces were attention-getting, if not for the faint of heart. As pretty as some of these dresses were, however, Temperly could benefit from a little editing, simply to cut down on the repetition.
Chaiken: Simple and pretty — two very important words in creative director Jeff Mahshie and founder and president Julie Chaiken's vocabulary. There was not one print on Chaiken's spring runway, and they certainly weren't missed. Not when they sent out clean silhouettes in pale pink, cream, black and gray with the tiniest of details — a soft ruche here, a curved collar there and subtle rope belts throughout. That's not to say everything was completely muted. Sponsored by Benjamin Moore, which also backed the duo's collection last season, Chaiken tossed in a few bright reds. And for the first time, more covetable than the label's well-cut pants were the trim skirts and party dresses, especially a slightly pouffed and crinkled, silk strapless number. The only tricky part of the show was the names of the colors — clay, string and conch — which translated, are orange, khaki and cream.
Rag & Bone: Add one more premium denim label to next season's must-have list. Designers Nathan Bogle, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville treated weary editors to some top-shelf champers along with some great clothes for their debut women's collection. Their men's line has been a hit since its inception in 2003, but with plenty of girls-about-town to test-drive samples, including Sienna Miller and Drew Barrymore, the trio showed lean separates, including suede bomber jackets, cotton blazers and fitted, short-sleeve blouses paired with dark, Japanese denim miniskirts, trousers and side-slit wool pencil skirts. There were no bells and whistles and there didn't need to be. Just like the Kentucky hills where the denim is manufactured, these guys are on a roll.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"