This spring, remember these three words: slim, prim and trim. The season bears the hallmark of simple chic in neutral hues — with just a dash of color.
Temperly London: Girly girls have reason to rejoice. Alice Temperly, a favorite of London's social set, has jumped the pond with her saccharin concoctions in tow. The designer has a unique sense when it comes to dressmaking, often showing crocheted and bold intarsia. For spring, those intarsia numbers were done up in a color-blocked Mayan motif, comprising black, rose and aubergine, while crocheted inserts sweetened up some pale Empire-waisted gowns and dresses. A couple of rainbow-striped pieces were attention-getting, if not for the faint of heart. As pretty as some of these dresses were, however, Temperly could benefit from a little editing, simply to cut down on the repetition.
Chaiken: Simple and pretty — two very important words in creative director Jeff Mahshie and founder and president Julie Chaiken's vocabulary. There was not one print on Chaiken's spring runway, and they certainly weren't missed. Not when they sent out clean silhouettes in pale pink, cream, black and gray with the tiniest of details — a soft ruche here, a curved collar there and subtle rope belts throughout. That's not to say everything was completely muted. Sponsored by Benjamin Moore, which also backed the duo's collection last season, Chaiken tossed in a few bright reds. And for the first time, more covetable than the label's well-cut pants were the trim skirts and party dresses, especially a slightly pouffed and crinkled, silk strapless number. The only tricky part of the show was the names of the colors — clay, string and conch — which translated, are orange, khaki and cream.
Rag & Bone: Add one more premium denim label to next season's must-have list. Designers Nathan Bogle, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville treated weary editors to some top-shelf champers along with some great clothes for their debut women's collection. Their men's line has been a hit since its inception in 2003, but with plenty of girls-about-town to test-drive samples, including Sienna Miller and Drew Barrymore, the trio showed lean separates, including suede bomber jackets, cotton blazers and fitted, short-sleeve blouses paired with dark, Japanese denim miniskirts, trousers and side-slit wool pencil skirts. There were no bells and whistles and there didn't need to be. Just like the Kentucky hills where the denim is manufactured, these guys are on a roll.Diesel: A curious inspirational pairing, Diesel's girls evoked postwar Forties femme fatales with touches of Japanese prints. That meant lots of sharp-shouldered military jackets and cropped pants, dark denim pencil skirts and embroidered silk tops and dresses. And while there were plenty of street-savvy, wearable clothes this time — as opposed to last season's over-the-top Russia-meets-Wild West fete — there was little to write home about.
Alexandre Herchcovitch: If the formula works, then stick with it. That's the motto chez Herchcovitch. Few designers are able to layer with the sort of abandon that comes so naturally to this quirky Brazilian. For spring, Herchcovitch seems to have imagined Marcia Brady ditching her suburban sprawl to tour the Alps with the Grateful Dead. Sounds trippy, but once your eyes got accustomed to the mix it wasn't hard to find some super clothes. Herchcovitch worked wavy gravy prints of multicolored florals into chiffon sundresses and tops in a way that resembled tie-dye. Tyrolean jackets and sharp little shorts also were trimmed and inset with those poppy florals, or another of the designer's favorites: gingham. Oh, and this season's, "I can't believe that's made of rubber" moment: a full white skirt with floral appliqué.
Matthew Williamson: It's inevitable that, when the fashion tides turn, every designer goes through growing pains. To Matthew Williamson's credit, however, his bohemian leanings preceded the trend, which is now winding its way down. The designer successfully addressed this issue last season with a great collection full of chic, tailored looks. But that wasn't the case for spring. Williamson alternated plainer pieces — creamy knits and tailored shorts trimmed charmingly with fat pearls — with more colorful fare, such as printed dresses, shirts and some inexplicable long skirts. But the graphic and geometric prints, which had not a whiff of Goa, were simply busy and unflattering. Better were the silk tops and dresses with trompe l'oeil necklaces done up in beads that fell straight and flapperish on the body.
Costello Tagliapietra: There is certainly something to be said for consistency, but at some point, every designer must grow and evolve. So it went that Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, who love jersey more than Bruce Springsteen, worked in some woven fabrics and expanded their all-dress policy to include tailored jackets and pants. To the pair's credit, the venture into new territory didn't feel forced. The slim pants worn with bloused and belted jackets went with the proverbial, and literal, flow, cut in heavy georgette that behaved much in the same way as the designers' favored fabric. But the dress still formed the meat of their collection. Only this time, the usual slew of intricately cut and mysteriously flattering jersey dresses was joined by a few breezy numbers in a light, crinkly crepe.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye