MILAN — Riccardo Tisci is the exception to the rule of struggling, young designers.
In a matter of months, Tisci has turned around his career, launching his namesake brand with the help of a group of Indian seamstresses and securing a licensing contract for production and distribution of his collection. To top it off, Tisci’s couture-like, feminine and intricately worked dresses have caught the attention of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which is said to be considering him to take the post of creative director at Givenchy.
It is speculation that Tisci firmly and modestly denies, however.
Only last summer, little did Tisci know that he would be able to turn one of the worst moments of his career into a fruitful new endeavor — the launch of his namesake brand. Just when the designer was adding his final touches to the spring 2005 Ruffo Research collection at the end of July, Ruffo owner Giacomo Corsi decided to suspend the line, a mere two months into their relationship.
After years working for other designer and firms — including Antonio Berardi, Stefano Guerriero, Missoni and Ratti — Tisci decided to try his hand at a solo experience and retreated to New Delhi, India, to work on his initial collection.
“I felt it was a pivotal moment for me, as I was turning 30. Also, my mum, who is 82 and has raised nine children, just wouldn’t give up on me and urged me not to desist,” said Tisci.
In India, he worked with a group of seamstresses who put together his capsule collection during the month of August, which he then showed in Milan last September. His best friend, model Maria Carla Boscono, helped organize his presentation. Tisci was able to garner the attention of editors and retailers with a conceptual but feminine collection enriched with details.
On Friday, Tisci will stage another performance for his fall collection along the lines of the previous one, in which models will walk, talk and be themselves for about an hour and a half.
He has already snagged a licensing contract with the Italian manufacturer Olmar and Mirta to produce and distribute his line for three years, starting with the spring collection. The Modena-based company already produces collections for designers such as Rick Owens and Maurizio Pecoraro and fashion companies such as Revillon.Olmar and Mirta owner Giambattista Tirelli expects to sell Tisci’s fall collection to 100 stores. The line is in the medium-high price range, with the most expensive items wholesaling at between $947 and $1,081.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)