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MILAN — Riccardo Tisci is the exception to the rule of struggling, young designers.
In a matter of months, Tisci has turned around his career, launching his namesake brand with the help of a group of Indian seamstresses and securing a licensing contract for production and distribution of his collection. To top it off, Tisci’s couture-like, feminine and intricately worked dresses have caught the attention of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which is said to be considering him to take the post of creative director at Givenchy.
It is speculation that Tisci firmly and modestly denies, however.
Only last summer, little did Tisci know that he would be able to turn one of the worst moments of his career into a fruitful new endeavor — the launch of his namesake brand. Just when the designer was adding his final touches to the spring 2005 Ruffo Research collection at the end of July, Ruffo owner Giacomo Corsi decided to suspend the line, a mere two months into their relationship.
After years working for other designer and firms — including Antonio Berardi, Stefano Guerriero, Missoni and Ratti — Tisci decided to try his hand at a solo experience and retreated to New Delhi, India, to work on his initial collection.
“I felt it was a pivotal moment for me, as I was turning 30. Also, my mum, who is 82 and has raised nine children, just wouldn’t give up on me and urged me not to desist,” said Tisci.
In India, he worked with a group of seamstresses who put together his capsule collection during the month of August, which he then showed in Milan last September. His best friend, model Maria Carla Boscono, helped organize his presentation. Tisci was able to garner the attention of editors and retailers with a conceptual but feminine collection enriched with details.
On Friday, Tisci will stage another performance for his fall collection along the lines of the previous one, in which models will walk, talk and be themselves for about an hour and a half.
He has already snagged a licensing contract with the Italian manufacturer Olmar and Mirta to produce and distribute his line for three years, starting with the spring collection. The Modena-based company already produces collections for designers such as Rick Owens and Maurizio Pecoraro and fashion companies such as Revillon.
Olmar and Mirta owner Giambattista Tirelli expects to sell Tisci’s fall collection to 100 stores. The line is in the medium-high price range, with the most expensive items wholesaling at between $947 and $1,081.