PARIS — Top executives in Europe’s major companies see the last 25 years as yielding evolutionary change.Gilles Weil, vice president in charge of L’Oréal’s luxury products division, ticked off the high points as the evolution of active ingredients; improvement in the knowledge of skin’s properties; globalization and the need to adapt to different cultures; more sophisticated products; an evolution of textures for skin care and makeup; a wider range of customers, including younger people in Asia and more mature customers in Europe and the U.S.; the advent of treatment for men, and the consolidation of big players to three or four in the world, making for fierce competition. He also listed the emergence of segment specialists, including makeup artists and niche brands. Patrick Choël, president of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fragrance and beauty division, said, "The first important thing in the past 25 years in the beauty industry is the constant growth of business. Choël added that there remains strong growth potential, and that the beauty market is far from saturated. Choël described another major change as the consolidation of small independent companies like Sephora andMarionnaud. "Twenty-five years ago, there were more midsized and smaller companies than we have today, he said, adding that the third factor is product proliferation. "It is good because it shows people want variety [and quality]," he said. "What’s bad is that sometimes there is an excess and not all products are always legitimate…The level of quality has risen enormously over the past 25 years."Chantal Roos, president and ceo of YSL Beauté, sees the greatest evolution of the last 25 years in the sophistication and satiation of consumer tastes. "Now there’s more product and the choice is so huge," said Roos, who had launched Opium and YSL’s other beauty entries, then masterminded Issey Miyake’s and Jean-Paul Gaultier’s entry into the fragrance market. "People are saturated."Christian Courtin, president and chief executive officer at Groupe Clarins, sees the major change as the improvement in quality and effectiveness of skin care. Marketing also has improved, but "unfortunately the trend is to launch and launch and launch. There is an increasing number of me-too products with too little creativity. When I started working in this industry, there was a code of honor. People were too proud to copy products."Courtin is proud of Clarins’ role in introducing UVA sun filters and the consumer is now fully cognizant of the dangers of sun damage. He observed, "Every time we learn something new about skin, we can go in another direction for skin care."
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)
"In order for Shudu to wear garments, she needs to be able to put them on, just like you would in the real world. You have to digitize the outfits," said Cameron-James Wilson on dressing 3-D model @shudu.gram for her WWD photoshoot with @itsclo3d. #wwdfashion (📸: @cjw.photo)
“Shudu is a digital supermodel, a very glamour and amazing woman. But she’s 3-D,” says Cameron-James Wilson, a fashion photographer and the creature of @shudu.gram. Here, Shudu wears @cushnieetochs for her debut fashion editorial. #wwdfashion (📷: @cjw.photo)
“It is the fierce female performances that came before me that made be able to clearly identify for myself what it was that I wanted to do, what kind of artist I wanted to be, what kind of films I wanted to make,” said @brielarson at the Women in Film Crystal + Lucy Awards. See more pictures from the event on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: Matt Baron)