PARIS — Top executives in Europe’s major companies see the last 25 years as yielding evolutionary change.
Gilles Weil, vice president in charge of L’Oréal’s luxury products division, ticked off the high points as the evolution of active ingredients; improvement in the knowledge of skin’s properties; globalization and the need to adapt to different cultures; more sophisticated products; an evolution of textures for skin care and makeup; a wider range of customers, including younger people in Asia and more mature customers in Europe and the U.S.; the advent of treatment for men, and the consolidation of big players to three or four in the world, making for fierce competition.
He also listed the emergence of segment specialists, including makeup artists and niche brands.
Patrick Choël, president of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fragrance and beauty division, said, "The first important thing in the past 25 years in the beauty industry is the constant growth of business. Choël added that there remains strong growth potential, and that the beauty market is far from saturated. Choël described another major change as the consolidation of small independent companies like Sephora andMarionnaud. "Twenty-five years ago, there were more midsized and smaller companies than we have today, he said, adding that the third factor is product proliferation. "It is good because it shows people want variety [and quality]," he said. "What’s bad is that sometimes there is an excess and not all products are always legitimate…The level of quality has risen enormously over the past 25 years."
Chantal Roos, president and ceo of YSL Beauté, sees the greatest evolution of the last 25 years in the sophistication and satiation of consumer tastes. "Now there’s more product and the choice is so huge," said Roos, who had launched Opium and YSL’s other beauty entries, then masterminded Issey Miyake’s and Jean-Paul Gaultier’s entry into the fragrance market. "People are saturated."
Christian Courtin, president and chief executive officer at Groupe Clarins, sees the major change as the improvement in quality and effectiveness of skin care. Marketing also has improved, but "unfortunately the trend is to launch and launch and launch. There is an increasing number of me-too products with too little creativity. When I started working in this industry, there was a code of honor. People were too proud to copy products."Courtin is proud of Clarins’ role in introducing UVA sun filters and the consumer is now fully cognizant of the dangers of sun damage. He observed, "Every time we learn something new about skin, we can go in another direction for skin care."
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion