Corey Lynn Calter: The scent of Coppertone mixed with cotton candy — one whiff can transport a person back to the days of cutting class to hang out at the beach. And that’s exactly how Corey Lynn Calter set the mood for her collection Monday night. While clever novelty can take a collection only so far, her Day-Glo looks mixed with whimsical prints and off-the-shoulder sex appeal captured all the fun and flirtations of tooling around in the Cali sun. Calter waxed nostalgic with Summer-of-Love-style sundresses, asymmetric Valley girl tops and Roller Derby shorts, while steering clear of the studied retro looks that were her weakness in the past. ?

But this is the land where fashion types swap visible bra straps for those of a snappy bikini. So out came neon-colored suits gave a high-octane sex appeal layered under deep V-neck dresses and sweaters with a preppy slant. Even a gauzy, tiered party dress was loosened up with a fluorescent yellow bikini top peeking out from the neckline. This is Calter’s first try at swimwear, and she has no plans of launching a formal swim line. Hopefully, she’ll change her mind.

Shawn: Shawn designer Yohanna Logan is having a major Peggy Moffitt moment. But she’s filtering that Mod magic through New Wave goggles since the she also fronts punk band Wow Cougar. In fact, it seemed as though she designed the collection for her onstage gear — a graphically black, white and red color palette; punk-rock details such as DIY silk-screened polkadots, and Mod-worthy skinny cuts. It was a lot of fun and very wearable. Less understandable, though, was fitting monocolored jersey tube dresses on girls with fake pregnant bellies, though the looks would work on someone not sporting a maternal bulge. But this wasn’t a case of Logan thinking she was born too late because the editing, materials and pairings kept the line from simply being a rehash of a past generation’s closet. For example, a Member’s Only-type jacket looked more hipster chic than Larry Gaitlin when done up in a heart-printed satin and worn with slim black pants.

Bao Tranchi: Some things you have to see to believe, and Tranchi’s premiere show could be just one of those things. Tranchi, 24, runs with a glam rock, club kid crowd and as such, her collection was a mix of Hollywood goth and gawk by way of Anne Rice and David Bowie. For an opener, her boyfriend Jack Atlantis sang Bowie’s “Scary Monsters” while strutting in a corseted jacket. Elsewhere, she showed a bit of a perfectionist’s hand with pieces that skimmed every curve of the body in leather, suede and a hand-distressed silk jersey that resembled crochetlike spiderwebs. She then moved through the fantastical realms of leather lovers and velvet vamps, shipwrecked damsels-turned-divas, as well as a corseted crew of mistresses, complete with parasols, bird cages, blindfolds and one glowing, red paper lantern. It was all an elegant spin on “Queen of the Damned,” for which, go figure, Tranchi did some costume work. (She also worked on “Charlie’s Angels” and it should be noted that at age 20, she was the youngest member admitted to the Costume Guild.) The show was almost operatic in theme and Tranchi’s attention to details gave each piece an aura of romantic excess. Her rising-star status clearly fits well with this city built on the pleasures of performance.

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