The Word From the Runways: Hanae Mori, Jean-Louis Scherrer
Hanae Mori's collection this season had enough stars in it to fill a galaxy. She covered her crisp crepe suits and slinky silk dresses with luminous clasps and five-pointed buttons, in looks meant for...
Hanae Mori's collection this season had enough stars in it to fill a galaxy. She covered her crisp crepe suits and slinky silk dresses with luminous clasps and five-pointed buttons, in looks meant for the woman who's not afraid to stand out. And just in case anyone missed the message, Madame Butterfly also sent out five-pointed handbags and covered the roof of the Carrousel's Salle Delorme with twinkling stars.
The house of Jean-Louis Scherrer has its priorities in order. They held their show for the arrival of Mme. Rafik Harari, wife of a Saudi businessman, who swept in wearing a sable coat, with her bodyguard right behind her. When the show started, it was with Arabian Nights music and floaty, gold-encrusted chiffon layers that were straight from the harem tent. There was even a kind of Chantilly chador effect in the big-brimmed straw hats that covered the models' faces, but let them see through an eye-slit cut in the brim. It was certainly a demonstration of staying close to the customer, a policy the house is extending into ready-to-wear by starting a personal-shopper service for Paris customers.
Erik Mortensen's collection itself is evolving in a more conventional mode, with tunic suits in tweed and pinstripes, lots of bright flower prints and a group of strong evening columns. Renate Hirsch, the blonde threads-groupie who showed up in a dusty-pink mink accompanied by her young son in black motorcycle leathers, seemed to love it.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast