Hanae Mori

Hanae Mori's collection this season had enough stars in it to fill a galaxy. She covered her crisp crepe suits and slinky silk dresses with luminous clasps and five-pointed buttons, in looks meant for the woman who's not afraid to stand out. And just in case anyone missed the message, Madame Butterfly also sent out five-pointed handbags and covered the roof of the Carrousel's Salle Delorme with twinkling stars.

Jean-Louis Scherrer

The house of Jean-Louis Scherrer has its priorities in order. They held their show for the arrival of Mme. Rafik Harari, wife of a Saudi businessman, who swept in wearing a sable coat, with her bodyguard right behind her. When the show started, it was with Arabian Nights music and floaty, gold-encrusted chiffon layers that were straight from the harem tent. There was even a kind of Chantilly chador effect in the big-brimmed straw hats that covered the models' faces, but let them see through an eye-slit cut in the brim. It was certainly a demonstration of staying close to the customer, a policy the house is extending into ready-to-wear by starting a personal-shopper service for Paris customers.

Erik Mortensen's collection itself is evolving in a more conventional mode, with tunic suits in tweed and pinstripes, lots of bright flower prints and a group of strong evening columns. Renate Hirsch, the blonde threads-groupie who showed up in a dusty-pink mink accompanied by her young son in black motorcycle leathers, seemed to love it.

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