The Word From the Runways: Paco Rabanne, Per Spook, Gerald Watelet, Lapidus, Nina Ricci, Lecoanet Hemant, Maurizio Galante,
Paco Rabanne: In the program notes for his collections, Rabanne claims he wants "to save Planet Earth," and he did his bit by steering clear of tin and latex and using lots of "natural" fabrics. Rabanne sent out short-skirted gazar...
Paco Rabanne: In the program notes for his collections, Rabanne claims he wants "to save Planet Earth," and he did his bit by steering clear of tin and latex and using lots of "natural" fabrics. Rabanne sent out short-skirted gazar suits, satin trapeze dresses and giant ethnic-print caftans. But the designer's true love - high tech - emerged at the end, with a slew of wacky and revealing minidresses made of Plexiglas, perfect for the woman who really wants to get into trouble.
Per Spook: Continuing the ecological trend, Per Spook looked to the sea for inspiration. The upbeat show had smiling models sent out in groups of clothes with names like Ocean and Pink Sand. A cream shantung sheath was painted with pale pink starfish, while floor-length black crepe dresses featured fishnet backs, straps and shawls. Although the casual designs often felt like ready-to-wear, it was a collection that rarely ran aground.
Gerald Watelet: Thirty-year-old Belgian designer Gerald Watelet has brought his show to Paris. The well-behaved collection, while not proof of genius, suggested potential. For day, he sent out long wool crepe jackets with high-waisted gabardine pants and, for evening, he covered all the bases with short dresses, pants and long, side-slit gowns. This fresh-faced boy from Bruxelles has been pleasing the local ladies for five years, but will need to go further to win over the Parisian front row.
Lapidus: Oliver Lapidus cut a fresh couture collection this season, mixing lots of white and ecru for day and using linen and crinkled organza for evening. His signature black and white looked smart in long, sleek - sometimes midriff-baring - evening dresses and in his sleeveless tuxedo. Pierre Berge, who was in the audience, gave the show a thumbs-up: "I like Oliver. He's young, and that's important for the business."
Nina Ricci: What with the slide show, clips of old Fred Astaire movies and tuxedoed men dashing on and off the stage, Gerard Pipart's collection for Nina Ricci seemed more like a re-creation of "Roberta" than a couture show. Nonetheless, Pipart does have a way of creating nice evening numbers that are pretty enough to please his conservative ladies. This season they danced out in low-cut, softly pleated white or navy gowns or simple crepe columns with floaty chiffon insets. For day, Pipart was best with subtle silk prints in the form of soft wrapped kimono jackets over pajama pants.Lecoanet Hemant: Greenpeace should give the house a medal. The design duo of Michele Cramont and Philippe Dayan offered up an inventive, primarily green collection in natural fibers, accompanied by a soundtrack that included seagulls' cries. Jute skirts were interlaced with seashells and pebbles, dresses looked as it they were made of grass and one beige leather jacket came in the shape of a clam. This was couture at its most ecologically correct.
Maurizio Galante: Galante took several fashion trends - a return to nature, deconstructionism and Miyake-like pleating - and threw them into a couture blender. A pale pink floor-length dress was paired with a bolero jacket embroidered with coral; a floral-embroidered shantung jacket was sent out with a pleated, mid-calf skirt with unfinished seams, and an oversize kimono was made of triple organza silk bent into row upon row of tubes. It made for an elegant presentation, albeit of some already well-trodden avant-garde ideas.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye