It’s too bad Pierre Cardin chose this season to ban most of the world’s press – he turned out his best collection in many years. That’s because Cardin abandoned the hoops and his brontosaurus sleeves, to focus on relatively clean, clear suits and dresses for the house’s loyal couture clients. And they were all there, from Claude Pompidou and Grace Dudley to Philippine do Rothschild and Jacqueline Delubac. But best of all were Cardin’s evening dresses, which were long designed by the late Andre Oliver. Cardin has managed to keep Oliver’s spirit and taste, and the loudest applause came for his drop-dead satin evening columns.
Les fideles de Philippe Venet will feast on his collection of finely tailored suits, sculpted coats and ladylike summer dresses. There is something to be said for the classic suit, and this season Venet delicately cut his in savory monochromatic pastels with long collarless jackets over short skirts.
Rose Torrente brought silk jersey back into her couture collection after a 15-year absence. Taffeta was nowhere to be seen, and her short babydoll dresses for day and evening and oversize organza blouses brought a modern touch to this traditional house.