The top 20 spring collections from Milan based on the number of Style.com page views during the first 12 days they were posted online.
If you happened to miss New York Fashion Week, dresses of all shapes and sizes dominated the runways. Well, guess what? Milan continued to “dress” things up, too — and in a variety of styles, no less. “The dress is...one of the most important categories for spring,” said Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “There were terrific options here: floating styles that moved away from the body — trapeze, Empire and shift shapes. The Eighties and Mod Sixties are giving the dress more of an edge.” Other trends on the runway included miniskirts, metallics and plenty of patent accessories. In all, Style.com’s top 20 designers accounted for over 24 million page views — 43 percent above last year. — Cecily Hall
1. PRADA Page views: 2,290,180 It was a beautiful, wearable collection in Miuccia Prada’s house this season, but that certain “wow” factor seemed to be missing. Perhaps everything was too commercial, or too subdued. The designer toyed with lean dresses and belted blouses, while accessorizing with the occasional utilitarian backpack. Said WWD, “In fashion, the search is for good clothes, which Prada provided. As for a larger concept...it was not included this season.”
2. BURBERRY PRORSUM Page views: 1,961,447 Christopher Bailey’s use of airy fabrics, pale colors and toned-down prints made for a light and charming collection, “brimming with first-class merch,” said WWD. He sent out linen trenches and buoyant dresses, and plenty of filmy knits.
3. GUCCI Page views: 1,899,197 There’s no doubt Gucci is a cash cow for its parent PPR. The brand identifies with the masses, but this season, Frida Giannini’s collection was anything but commercial. The pieces were “a joust between space chicks and Eastern European majorettes.”
4.MARNI Page views: 1,734,206 Consuelo Castiglione whipped up a collection of fresh, sporty pieces for spring. Though the show lacked a bit of spark, she sent out plenty of pieces: Bold prints of half-belted dresses, leggings, cocoon skirts and warm-up jackets lit up her runway.5. VERSACE Page views: 1,645,655 Donatella Versace’s spring collection was deemed “terrific — the best in Milan,” by WWD. Not only did Versace herself look incredible, but the collection’s high-waisted dresses, lean coats, sporty short jacket and the green jewel-collared gown looked just as fabulous.
6. GIORGIO ARMANI Page views: 1,569,380 Daytime’s fluid jackets and ruffled skirts, combined with evening’s Empire gown and floral-patterned dresses made for “Giorgio Armani’s most beautifully controlled collection in years,” said WWD. The silver gown with the plunging neckline was a standout.
7. ROBERTO CAVALLI Page views: 1,395,575 It was a football extravaganza at Roberto Cavalli’s house this season — including scoreboards and AstroTurf. He kept the theme in check without overindulging, sending out sporty pieces like a beige trench with gold buttons.
8. BOTTEGA VENETA Page views: 1,263,192 Tomas Maier’s approach to this season’s dress trend came in the form of jersey dresses, which were pleated, smocked and embroidered. He played with linens and silks and kept the rest of his dresses loose and breezy, “a major Milan trend,” noted WWD.
9. ALBERTA FERRETTI Page views: 1,190,005 The dresses alone made for a girly fest at Alberta Ferretti this season. Working with a breezy palette of light colors, she showed an ivory chiffon gown and draped minidresses — “in fact, she sent out enough pretty frocks to last 1,001 nights,” said WWD.
10. FENDI Page views: 1,130,088 “This collection lacked the usual Fendi oomph,” noted WWD, though Karl Lagerfeld’s spacewear “looked more wearable than most of the rest.” He showed sweaters bordered with chains, leathery Eighties-shape frocks cinched with wide belts.
11. MISSONI Page views: 1,109,088 Though Angela Missoni’s spring collection was a hodgepodge of ideas, it all worked. She showed everything from balloon skirts with oversize pockets to knitted tubes and boleros. She introduced some new daring and graphic prints of irises and camouflage.12. EMILIO PUCCI Page views: 1,007,540 Too much flash and not enough substance came from Matthew Williamson’s Pucci collection for spring. Revealing wild tropical colors, way-too-big sequins and clunky jewelry, his minidresses and miniskirts were not well-received. “Williamson will have to tone down the exaggeration and up the finesse,” said WWD.
13. JIL SANDER Page views: 985,439 Said WWD of Raf Simons’ shimmer pink iridescent sequined dress, “It was a dazzler in every way.” His Jil Sander collection for spring was heavy on yellows, greens and blues and contained sculpted miniskirts, along with boxy and long jackets over skinny pants.
14. DSQUARED Page views: 976,293 Dean and Dan Caten’s decision to move away from sex appeal and more toward the girl-next-door made for a lively collection. The pieces were delightful and modern, especially the crisp button-downs, and the lace-trimmed and nautical numbers.
15. MOSCHINO Page views: 803,957 It was a safari-theme adventure at Moschino this season. But the crowd received a mixed bag of goods — the giraffe-printed gown seemed too gimmicky, but the tailored cargo shorts, classic African-print dresses and puffy safari jackets impressed.
16. ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA Page views: 766,270 “Plenty of sizzle,” said WWD of Alessandro Dell’Acqua for spring. He worked key elements, such as the Sixties, rock ’n’ roll and erotic themes, sending out purple baby-doll dresses, huge, flowered numbers and lacy tops.
17. BLUMARINE Page views: 706,730 Anna Molinari sent out plenty of her girly dresses for spring, along with lace shirts and box-pleated skirts that were paired with decorated cardigans. “Evening was just as romantic with a bouquet of chiffon gowns in rose, pink and lavender,” said WWD.
18. ETRO Page views: 677,323 Veronica Etro’s cosmic take on spring included blazers with spacey adornments and military-style vests, but they mixed awkwardly with paisley baby-doll dresses and kilts. Although the silk dresses were appealing, “a few far-flung pieces do not a collection make,” said WWD.19. GIANFRANCO FERRE Page views: 652,829 Gianfranco Ferré sent out his message for spring by way of shorts — short-shorts, that is, which were paired with cropped jackets and tanks. He showed a combination of nautical pieces, then sent out teddy dresses and see-through camisoles.
20. MAX MARA Page views: 642,972 Amid the primal clothing and extreme styling (such as a cardigan over lamé and gladiator sandals) that Max Mara showed, there were some real gems. The draped skirts, button-downs and loose blazers were all smart pieces that stood out on the runway.
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.