The top 20 spring collections from Milan based on the number of Style.com page views during the first 12 days they were posted online.
If you happened to miss New York Fashion Week, dresses of all shapes and sizes dominated the runways. Well, guess what? Milan continued to “dress” things up, too — and in a variety of styles, no less. “The dress is...one of the most important categories for spring,” said Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “There were terrific options here: floating styles that moved away from the body — trapeze, Empire and shift shapes. The Eighties and Mod Sixties are giving the dress more of an edge.” Other trends on the runway included miniskirts, metallics and plenty of patent accessories. In all, Style.com’s top 20 designers accounted for over 24 million page views — 43 percent above last year. — Cecily Hall
1. PRADA Page views: 2,290,180 It was a beautiful, wearable collection in Miuccia Prada’s house this season, but that certain “wow” factor seemed to be missing. Perhaps everything was too commercial, or too subdued. The designer toyed with lean dresses and belted blouses, while accessorizing with the occasional utilitarian backpack. Said WWD, “In fashion, the search is for good clothes, which Prada provided. As for a larger concept...it was not included this season.”
2. BURBERRY PRORSUM Page views: 1,961,447 Christopher Bailey’s use of airy fabrics, pale colors and toned-down prints made for a light and charming collection, “brimming with first-class merch,” said WWD. He sent out linen trenches and buoyant dresses, and plenty of filmy knits.
3. GUCCI Page views: 1,899,197 There’s no doubt Gucci is a cash cow for its parent PPR. The brand identifies with the masses, but this season, Frida Giannini’s collection was anything but commercial. The pieces were “a joust between space chicks and Eastern European majorettes.”
4.MARNI Page views: 1,734,206 Consuelo Castiglione whipped up a collection of fresh, sporty pieces for spring. Though the show lacked a bit of spark, she sent out plenty of pieces: Bold prints of half-belted dresses, leggings, cocoon skirts and warm-up jackets lit up her runway.5. VERSACE Page views: 1,645,655 Donatella Versace’s spring collection was deemed “terrific — the best in Milan,” by WWD. Not only did Versace herself look incredible, but the collection’s high-waisted dresses, lean coats, sporty short jacket and the green jewel-collared gown looked just as fabulous.
6. GIORGIO ARMANI Page views: 1,569,380 Daytime’s fluid jackets and ruffled skirts, combined with evening’s Empire gown and floral-patterned dresses made for “Giorgio Armani’s most beautifully controlled collection in years,” said WWD. The silver gown with the plunging neckline was a standout.
7. ROBERTO CAVALLI Page views: 1,395,575 It was a football extravaganza at Roberto Cavalli’s house this season — including scoreboards and AstroTurf. He kept the theme in check without overindulging, sending out sporty pieces like a beige trench with gold buttons.
8. BOTTEGA VENETA Page views: 1,263,192 Tomas Maier’s approach to this season’s dress trend came in the form of jersey dresses, which were pleated, smocked and embroidered. He played with linens and silks and kept the rest of his dresses loose and breezy, “a major Milan trend,” noted WWD.
9. ALBERTA FERRETTI Page views: 1,190,005 The dresses alone made for a girly fest at Alberta Ferretti this season. Working with a breezy palette of light colors, she showed an ivory chiffon gown and draped minidresses — “in fact, she sent out enough pretty frocks to last 1,001 nights,” said WWD.
10. FENDI Page views: 1,130,088 “This collection lacked the usual Fendi oomph,” noted WWD, though Karl Lagerfeld’s spacewear “looked more wearable than most of the rest.” He showed sweaters bordered with chains, leathery Eighties-shape frocks cinched with wide belts.
11. MISSONI Page views: 1,109,088 Though Angela Missoni’s spring collection was a hodgepodge of ideas, it all worked. She showed everything from balloon skirts with oversize pockets to knitted tubes and boleros. She introduced some new daring and graphic prints of irises and camouflage.12. EMILIO PUCCI Page views: 1,007,540 Too much flash and not enough substance came from Matthew Williamson’s Pucci collection for spring. Revealing wild tropical colors, way-too-big sequins and clunky jewelry, his minidresses and miniskirts were not well-received. “Williamson will have to tone down the exaggeration and up the finesse,” said WWD.
13. JIL SANDER Page views: 985,439 Said WWD of Raf Simons’ shimmer pink iridescent sequined dress, “It was a dazzler in every way.” His Jil Sander collection for spring was heavy on yellows, greens and blues and contained sculpted miniskirts, along with boxy and long jackets over skinny pants.
14. DSQUARED Page views: 976,293 Dean and Dan Caten’s decision to move away from sex appeal and more toward the girl-next-door made for a lively collection. The pieces were delightful and modern, especially the crisp button-downs, and the lace-trimmed and nautical numbers.
15. MOSCHINO Page views: 803,957 It was a safari-theme adventure at Moschino this season. But the crowd received a mixed bag of goods — the giraffe-printed gown seemed too gimmicky, but the tailored cargo shorts, classic African-print dresses and puffy safari jackets impressed.
16. ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA Page views: 766,270 “Plenty of sizzle,” said WWD of Alessandro Dell’Acqua for spring. He worked key elements, such as the Sixties, rock ’n’ roll and erotic themes, sending out purple baby-doll dresses, huge, flowered numbers and lacy tops.
17. BLUMARINE Page views: 706,730 Anna Molinari sent out plenty of her girly dresses for spring, along with lace shirts and box-pleated skirts that were paired with decorated cardigans. “Evening was just as romantic with a bouquet of chiffon gowns in rose, pink and lavender,” said WWD.
18. ETRO Page views: 677,323 Veronica Etro’s cosmic take on spring included blazers with spacey adornments and military-style vests, but they mixed awkwardly with paisley baby-doll dresses and kilts. Although the silk dresses were appealing, “a few far-flung pieces do not a collection make,” said WWD.19. GIANFRANCO FERRE Page views: 652,829 Gianfranco Ferré sent out his message for spring by way of shorts — short-shorts, that is, which were paired with cropped jackets and tanks. He showed a combination of nautical pieces, then sent out teddy dresses and see-through camisoles.
20. MAX MARA Page views: 642,972 Amid the primal clothing and extreme styling (such as a cardigan over lamé and gladiator sandals) that Max Mara showed, there were some real gems. The draped skirts, button-downs and loose blazers were all smart pieces that stood out on the runway.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)