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The WWD List: Dressing Milan

The top 20 spring collections from Milan based on the number of Style.com page views during the first 12 days they were posted online.

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The top 20 spring collections from Milan based on the number of Style.com page views during the first 12 days they were posted online.

If you happened to miss New York Fashion Week, dresses of all shapes and sizes dominated the runways. Well, guess what? Milan continued to “dress” things up, too — and in a variety of styles, no less. “The dress is…one of the most important categories for spring,” said Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “There were terrific options here: floating styles that moved away from the body — trapeze, Empire and shift shapes. The Eighties and Mod Sixties are giving the dress more of an edge.” Other trends on the runway included miniskirts, metallics and plenty of patent accessories. In all, Style.com’s top 20 designers accounted for over 24 million page views — 43 percent above last year. — Cecily Hall

1. PRADA
Page views: 2,290,180
It was a beautiful, wearable collection in Miuccia Prada’s house this season, but that certain “wow” factor seemed to be missing. Perhaps everything was too commercial, or too subdued. The designer toyed with lean dresses and belted blouses, while accessorizing with the occasional utilitarian backpack. Said WWD, “In fashion, the search is for good clothes, which Prada provided. As for a larger concept…it was not included this season.”

2. BURBERRY PRORSUM
Page views: 1,961,447
Christopher Bailey’s use of airy fabrics, pale colors and toned-down prints made for a light and charming collection, “brimming with first-class merch,” said WWD. He sent out linen trenches and buoyant dresses, and plenty of filmy knits.

3. GUCCI
Page views: 1,899,197
There’s no doubt Gucci is a cash cow for its parent PPR. The brand identifies with the masses, but this season, Frida Giannini’s collection was anything but commercial. The pieces were “a joust between space chicks and Eastern European majorettes.”

4.MARNI
Page views: 1,734,206
Consuelo Castiglione whipped up a collection of fresh, sporty pieces for spring. Though the show lacked a bit of spark, she sent out plenty of pieces: Bold prints of half-belted dresses, leggings, cocoon skirts and warm-up jackets lit up her runway.

5. VERSACE
Page views: 1,645,655
Donatella Versace’s spring collection was deemed “terrific — the best in Milan,” by WWD. Not only did Versace herself look incredible, but the collection’s high-waisted dresses, lean coats, sporty short jacket and the green jewel-collared gown looked just as fabulous.

6. GIORGIO ARMANI
Page views: 1,569,380
Daytime’s fluid jackets and ruffled skirts, combined with evening’s Empire gown and floral-patterned dresses made for “Giorgio Armani’s most beautifully controlled collection in years,” said WWD. The silver gown with the plunging neckline was a standout.

7. ROBERTO CAVALLI
Page views: 1,395,575
It was a football extravaganza at Roberto Cavalli’s house this season — including scoreboards and AstroTurf. He kept the theme in check without overindulging, sending out sporty pieces like a beige trench with gold buttons.

8. BOTTEGA VENETA
Page views: 1,263,192
Tomas Maier’s approach to this season’s dress trend came in the form of jersey dresses, which were pleated, smocked and embroidered. He played with linens and silks and kept the rest of his dresses loose and breezy, “a major Milan trend,” noted WWD.

9. ALBERTA FERRETTI
Page views: 1,190,005
The dresses alone made for a girly fest at Alberta Ferretti this season. Working with a breezy palette of light colors, she showed an ivory chiffon gown and draped minidresses — “in fact, she sent out enough pretty frocks to last 1,001 nights,” said WWD.

10. FENDI
Page views: 1,130,088
“This collection lacked the usual Fendi oomph,” noted WWD, though Karl Lagerfeld’s spacewear “looked more wearable than most of the rest.” He showed sweaters bordered with chains, leathery Eighties-shape frocks cinched with wide belts.

11. MISSONI
Page views: 1,109,088
Though Angela Missoni’s spring collection was a hodgepodge of ideas, it all worked. She showed everything from balloon skirts with oversize pockets to knitted tubes and boleros. She introduced some new daring and graphic prints of irises and camouflage.

12. EMILIO PUCCI
Page views: 1,007,540
Too much flash and not enough substance came from Matthew Williamson’s Pucci collection for spring. Revealing wild tropical colors, way-too-big sequins and clunky jewelry, his minidresses and miniskirts were not well-received. “Williamson will have to tone down the exaggeration and up the finesse,” said WWD.

13. JIL SANDER
Page views: 985,439
Said WWD of Raf Simons’ shimmer pink iridescent sequined dress, “It was a dazzler in every way.” His Jil Sander collection for spring was heavy on yellows, greens and blues and contained sculpted miniskirts, along with boxy and long jackets over skinny pants.

14. DSQUARED
Page views: 976,293
Dean and Dan Caten’s decision to move away from sex appeal and more toward the girl-next-door made for a lively collection. The pieces were delightful and modern, especially the crisp button-downs, and the lace-trimmed and nautical numbers.

15. MOSCHINO
Page views: 803,957
It was a safari-theme adventure at Moschino this season. But the crowd received a mixed bag of goods — the giraffe-printed gown seemed too gimmicky, but the tailored cargo shorts, classic African-print dresses and puffy safari jackets impressed.

16. ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
Page views: 766,270
“Plenty of sizzle,” said WWD of Alessandro Dell’Acqua for spring. He worked key elements, such as the Sixties, rock ’n’ roll and erotic themes, sending out purple baby-doll dresses, huge, flowered numbers and lacy tops.

17. BLUMARINE
Page views: 706,730
Anna Molinari sent out plenty of her girly dresses for spring, along with lace shirts and box-pleated skirts that were paired with decorated cardigans. “Evening was just as romantic with a bouquet of chiffon gowns in rose, pink and lavender,” said WWD.

18. ETRO
Page views: 677,323
Veronica Etro’s cosmic take on spring included blazers with spacey adornments and military-style vests, but they mixed awkwardly with paisley baby-doll dresses and kilts. Although the silk dresses were appealing, “a few far-flung pieces do not a collection make,” said WWD.

19. GIANFRANCO FERRE
Page views: 652,829
Gianfranco Ferré sent out his message for spring by way of shorts — short-shorts, that is, which were paired with cropped jackets and tanks. He showed a combination of nautical pieces, then sent out teddy dresses and see-through camisoles.

20. MAX MARA
Page views: 642,972
Amid the primal clothing and extreme styling (such as a cardigan over lamé and gladiator sandals) that Max Mara showed, there were some real gems. The draped skirts, button-downs and loose blazers were all smart pieces that stood out on the runway.

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