As the spring couture collections continued, both Valentino and Elie Saab worked variations on highly specific themes: the color white and a blaze of sequins, respectively.
Valentino: A little froth in pristine white — it worked for Cameron Diaz at the Golden Globes, and by Valentino's lights, it should tickle the fancy of his core ladies, too.
The designer called his spring haute couture "A Whiter Shade of Pale," and it was that indeed, shown in a series of curtained alcoves that he said recalled the "Sala Bianca" in Florence where he first rose to fame long ago. Nearly 45 years ago, in fact, and with that upcoming anniversary on his mind, Valentino's nostalgic bent is understandable. Here, one could feel its impact not in clothes that felt retro, but in their repetitive hyperfocus, suggesting the likelihood that, while designing this collection, Val may have been distracted by thoughts of things to come. Actually, the color-free parade of house signatures played like a teaser of sorts to a grand anniversary extravaganza planned for July.
Valentino strayed momentarily from his hue of choice with a few pinks and a floaty yellow negligee the shape of which will ring familiar to anyone with intimate knowledge of the original Barbie doll's wardrobe. (Not, by the way, to be read as a negative.) Otherwise, he kept everything in varying shades of white and amply decorated, from the flyaway devore tunic and skirt that opened the show to his bevy of linear gowns, all swirled, twirled, ruffled, ribboned and, of course, jeweled to characteristically grand effect.
Elie Saab: With enough glimmering sequins to make the Northern Lights look like chump change, Elie Saab's abundant array of sexy embroidered gowns proved that the Beirut designer has found his zone — and plans on staying there. After all, why change directions when your formula yields such winning returns? Glamour-pusses from Halle Berry to Beyoncé have lit up the red carpet in his brilliant confections. And Saab claims to sell hundreds of couture pieces per season, making his one of the healthier businesses in the haute trade. This collection, though single-minded, provided plenty of fodder for the designer's admirers. Dresses in rose or powder blue came decorated with spangles, a cascade of ruffles or a puff of lace. Meanwhile, a high slit here or a plunging neckline there drove home Saab's idea of femininity. There were winners, including any of the long chiffon numbers with a draped bustier. Nonetheless, one would like to see Saab develop his arsenal into a more complex whole.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)