Isaac Mizrahi: Isaac Mizrahi is still a cockeyed optimist. He returned to the runway on Monday with a collection that radiated joie du mode, just like in the old days, when, as a chubby 26-year-old, he took New York fashion by gleeful storm with notions about notice-me sportswear, day-for-night crossover and color, color, color. The collection Mizrahi showed on Monday left no doubt that he still holds many of the same positions. Only now he renders them with greater sophistication, but not so much that it gets in the way of a good time. A favorite shape: the structured A-line, which he worked to a fare-thee-well in charming dresses with peekaboo corsets and fur hems. Elsewhere, he revived the sporty-at-night motif with au courant looks inspired by his own archive — an off-the-shoulder stretch of sweatshirt, gray with jeweled cuffs, and, long a favorite of his, the white cotton tank, now forming the bodice of a feathery, bejeweled dream. As for Mizrahi's renowned color sense, he indulged in a couple of melon getups that only a cantaloupe could love. But when huge, vibrant flowers blossomed against a bright white gown, the picture was rosy indeed.

3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim sure has been busy — working on his new men's wear collection, collaborating with Nars on a beauty line and, most recently, signing a lease for his first freestanding store, slated to open here in June. He has also been putting the finishing touches on his stellar women's presentation, full of his vision of American sportswear: easy, layered and effortlessly cool. Inspired by Little Edie Beale, though not literally, he sent out graceful, fluid cocktail dresses, not too loose, not too tight, and rendered daywear in unfussy lines with just a hint of button or pintucking details. However, Lim fans may have a problem choosing a coat this season, because they were all great: a black leather bomber, the collarless trench, a reworked red lumberjack number. Need we go on?

Luca Luca: Skiwear was the inspiration behind Luca Orlandi's fall collection, and boy, did he focus on the theme. He took his luxe ladies from the slopes well into the St. Moritz evenings, starting with a series of snow-bunny looks — sporty quilted pants, a gem-encrusted puffer and a pair of mink shorts — all accessorized with goggles, and all in white. The icy palette didn't stop there. Silver, gray, pale blue and lots of shimmer appeared on elegant gowns, skinny pants and suits that were sported up with zippers. While at times the ice-queen theme was a bit chilling (any takers on that skin-tight jumpsuit?), there were moments of cold-mountain chic in the furs, especially that swingy mink caplet.Luella: For fall, Luella Bartley took her audience on a romp through her own backyard. "It's English all the way," she said. And, indeed, from the first look, a bright red hunting coat, to the Sgt. Pepper getups and debutante frocks that followed, the collection was much ado about blue bloods and the Union Jack — done up, of course, in cheeky Luella style. Take the designer's footwear of choice, for instance: riding boots, folded down, then spray painted and graphically reworked by the artist Noki. Polkadot dresses featured puffed-up crinolines, while a raincoat was printed with bowler-hatted men holding umbrellas. And, of course, there were plenty of Bartley's signature Mod suits — slim, trim, with that British rocker vibe.

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