NEW YORK — Since launching his label in 2001, Thom Browne has been quietly custom-making pieces for women from his Meatpacking District atelier here. Now the men's wear designer is making a serious run at women's ready-to-wear.
Browne put together a collection of 25 pieces for women under his namesake moniker that will be available at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Jeffrey New York and Colette in Paris this fall. Aesthetically, the line is in the spirit of Browne's men's wear with his signature details such as short, shrunken jackets and trousers that fall just above the ankle. It will also include coats, oxford shirts and cardigans. Suits and coats are priced around $4,000 at retail, sweaters, $1,500, and shirts, $400, which is in line with the men's wear.
Browne became energized for women's while creating Brooks Brothers' Black Fleece collection, which he guest designs. He unveiled his first Black Fleece women's pieces last March, featuring tailored suits, pleated dresses, plaid knits and men's wear-inspired topper coats.
"I have seen private female customers really from the beginning," he said. "The project with Brooks Bros. pushed me to do it for myself, but I have been wanting to do it for a long time."
Browne is starting with a capsule launch and hopes to organically evolve it into a full collection over the next two season. "I wanted to start introducing [women's], but in a way so that it's something that people found," he said.
Since starting his namesake business, Browne has arguably become an influential men's wear designer by changing the suit silhouette. He has been showing his collections in New York, but is mulling a move to the Paris men's wear shows in the next two seasons. Browne, who didn't disclose sales projections, said he could envision his women's line on the runway "some day."
"I love seeing girls in my stuff," he said. "It's very different from men's, but I am looking at it very similarly. I am having a good time with it."
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)