TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week is hitting its stride, offering up a wide range of collections and design inspirations, from lush romanticism to Goth intrigue. Here are some of the highlights from the shows so far:
Somarta Tamae Hirokawa turned out a romantic collection of ladylike pieces in a palette of red, pink, beige, ivory and blush. Prim jacquard pencil skirts and shift dresses were paired with edgier, motorcycle-inspired jackets, and tight, intricately constructed ruffles and tucks added depth to chiffon miniskirts and blouses. Modern touches came in the form of puffer jackets reimagined as capes and a long vest worn as a dress. The designer added sparkle with metallic accents throughout, showing up as beaded embellishments on satin frocks, foil prints and sequins peeking out between layers of frills.
Matohu Hiroyuki Horihata and Makkiko Sekiguchi stayed true to their expertise for turning out relaxed but elegant takes on traditional Japanese dress. Once again they produced plenty of wrap coats and dresses referencing the kimono, but they also branched out into more fitted items — such as a motorcycle jacket and leather pants — to give the collection some contrast and edge. The collection’s standouts included capes and skirts with handkerchief hems, some of which were made with a wool fabric perforated to show a silk lining through the holes. Also of note: some lovely ombré prints in ink blue and canary yellow worked into dresses and skirts.
A Degree Fahrenheit For his second show during Japan Fashion Week, designer Yu Amatsu showcased his skill at pattern cutting and dressmaking with a series of beautifully constructed styles that either hugged the body or draped and trailed gracefully as the models walked the runway. Color was sparse, with only a very light ice blue accompanying the many shades of gray and black, but the designer kept it interesting with mixed textures and details like geometric patchwork and carefully executed folds and gathers. A beautifully ethereal fringed, backless gown in gradating shades of gray and pale pink closed the show.
White Mountaineering Taking the term runway to heart in the most literal of senses, Yosuke Aizawa sent his models down a long path painted to resemble a landing strip at an airport. True to the brand’s reputation for revisiting classic sportswear for the hipster set, the lineup comprised some great parkas and outerwear as well as patchwork knits and separates featuring every imaginable combination of plaid, zigzag and check. There were also a few styles in a tweaked camouflage. A handful of guys in airport-appropriate uniforms punctuated the show.
Nozomi Ishiguro Tambourine For the second season of his new diffusion line, Nozomi Ishiguro seemed to meld a series of influences ranging from Western to grunge to hip-hop. Perhaps one of the first women’s looks out on the runway best summarized the multimedia mishmash: a short dress featuring a single plaid shirt sleeve spliced with part of a graphic T-shirt, half a skirt in lace and half of a dress form in embroidered black fabric. Several patchwork T-shirt dresses built on that theme. There were also fuzzy, textured knits, including a sleeveless number with a denim back. Fringe made the odd appearance on a denim shirt or jeans.
Alice Auaa Yasutaka Funakoshi brought a taste of Tokyo’s unique Goth subculture — yes, it is still alive and well — to Japan Fashion Week. The show kicked off with a video of the designerwalking in the woods before dropping his trousers, sitting against a tree and well…it’s not quite clear what is going on but maybe it’s better not to know. Moving on, a model wearing an actual table around her waist opened proceedings with a ruffled black dress. The collection proceeded to feature a knit bodysuit, a dramatic black coat with peaked shoulders, several other corseted numbers and a short black feathered dress.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion