Chanel: You've heard of the ivory-tower designer? At Chanel, make that a stark white-and-chrome edifice, soaring 32 meters (almost 105 feet) toward the newly restored center dome of the Grand Palais. While his proverbial artiste counterpart swans about in glorious digs indifferent to his constituency's needs and desires, Karl Lagerfeld views his towers — both the one constructed as the centerpiece of his spring couture set and the one he frequents more regularly, on the rue Cambon — as seats of razor-sharp currency and uber fashion power, both rooted oh-so-firmly in reality. Thus with the Paris couture light dimming all around him, Lagerfeld re-illuminated its core with an ultrachic, ultracontrolled collection that spoke breathlessly to those clients of the borrowing kind (the Hollywood season set) and, more importantly, the buying kind (ladies for whom off-the-rack clothes just won't do). For spring, he's tempting them both with a beautiful collection in which his models looked engagingly jeune fille and at times even Mod, if occasionally awkward, courtesy of their flat boots, reworked versions of a pair Mademoiselle herself was photographed wearing in 1957.
Day chez Chanel is about small jackets and coats over sculpted dresses, waists raised slightly in front, skirts falling softly over the hips. These came in combinations of white, black and whisper-soft pastels, their lines unfettered except for multiple hair ornaments and frilled additions to the neck or wrists. The coquettish allure of those collars and gauntlets hinted at what would come for evening, an ebullient treatise on ornamentation. But heavy-handed? Not a chance: For all the bounty of embroideries, appliqués, feathers and fluff, Lagerfeld kept everything impossibly gentle. He worked light-as-air fabrics into myriad shapes — full-skirted party frock, flamboyant trapeze, an Edie Sedgwick moment — and, while he ladled the froth, he knew just when to quit. A pleated party dress was veiled under a sheer, rose-embroidered coat; a flurry of shredded silk trimmed the crystalled lace trapeze cutaway into an endless train; elsewhere, feathers danced against lace and tulle. And when Lagerfeld could say no more with abundance, he pared down with stunning grace, a simple white gown gathered in back into two bountiful bows.
Throughout, the models circled the tower and then disappeared inside. For the finale, the tower soared skyward, revealing Lagerfeld's entire lineup positioned on a four-tier circular stairway, like an haute-clad Ziegfeld chorus. Talk about a stairway to paradise.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)