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Fall marked Tina Lutz’s fifth season designing for Tse, and this collection was her best yet. She looked to German photographer Edgar Leciejewski’s book “Himmel Ohne Wolken,” which features birds after death. “It’s a bit sad, but the portraits are actually beautiful,” said Lutz, who for fall also launched an organic cashmere collection of environmentally friendly staples.
Lutz worked the avian inspiration subtly, such as via the stitching in the shape of splayed feathers on a wool top’s bodice and sleeves, while more literal prints of gray and teal feathers came on a T-shirt dress and cardigan. Meanwhile, a belt fringed to look like feathers was cinched over cashmere sweaters. When worn low on the hips, it gave the illusion of a peplum, and when worn high over the chest, it appeared as part of the top’s design.
Lutz, also an adjunct professor at Rhode Island School of Design, tapped four of her apparel design students to collaborate on this lineup. Caitrin Watson created a Baroque pattern used in some of the knits; Anne Wang, the feather print on a dress and cardigan; Austin Snyder, a sweater/vest hybrid, and Genah Yong Kim, a removable braided armorlike bodice.