YSL SAYS NO: Yves Saint Laurent has refused Robert Altman’s request to let Kim Basinger interview the designer for “Pret-a-Porter” backstage after today’s YSL show. “We didn’t think it was a good idea. It’s not the kind of thing that can be faked,” said Saint Laurent’s partner Pierre Berge. Some of the actors in the film will attend the show, but they will not be filmed there. “We know that this will draw attention away from the clothes,” Berge said. “But that’s true anytime you invite a celebrity. Can you imagine what it would be like if you had Mrs. Clinton?”
ISSEY MIYAKE: By Monday evening, only the end of the second day of the Altman shooting, the whole thing was definitely wearing thin. Miyake did his best to counter the ill will with an upbeat presentation. The fact that no one’s going to be wearing pleated pyramids with precision-cut staircases up each side goes without saying. But then, there’s also a limited market for brimmed chapeaux shaped out of bread and colorful, sticky candy, but they were a hoot and gave new meaning to the expression “eat my hat.”
Miyake’s clothes are incredibly inventive, sometimes too much so for real life. But the more delicate, subtly layered pleats — dresses tied up with strings to vary the silhouettes, dotted combinations in brown and white — could go anywhere. And who can’t use a colorful down jacket or coat, worn over cotton jersey pieces and rough-weather rubber shoes with spats?
THE GOODS ON GALLIANO: Despite the fact that Saks Fifth Avenue had an appointment with John Galliano this week, the store will not be carrying his clothes for fall. There had been rumors of a little turf tussle between Saks and Bergdorf Goodman. “To the best of my knowledge, Bergdorf Goodman has the collection exclusively in New York, as we did for this season,” said Ellin Saltzman, Bergdorf’s senior vice president. She added that the only exception is Bagutta, which she described as “a longtime client” of Galliano.
MARTINE SITBON: With all the red sequined and patent leather slippers she sent out, Martine seemed to be on a long journey to Oz. But the trip would have been better if she’d stayed with her terrific daywear instead. After the show, Sitbon explained that the collection was inspired by her childhood, and her short, sexy A-line skirts, worn with knee socks and high-heeled boots or sparkling blue anklets and mary janes, proved it. Yet the designer can still cut a mean pinstriped pantsuit. This season her long, split-cuffed jackets were shown over straight pants that hung low on the hips. They picked up on one of Paris’s big trends — droopy, slouchy pants. Martine’s were some of the best.
TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE: For Karl Lagerfeld’s show, Julien d’Ys did coifs with masses of added-on curls for all the girls. All but two. Tattooed Eve hit the runway bald once again, and Karl even rounded up another clean cranium, this one belonging to the very pretty Marinda, who’s with the Viva agency in Paris.
CHANTAL THOMASS: Claudia Schiffer marched out in a black stretch bodysuit, fake leather mini and a frilly white vest, looking like someone’s fantasy of a sexy French maid. With her black lace stockings, thigh-high boots and baby doll dresses, the Chantal Thomass girl seems to divide her time between boudoir and bordello. At one point in the show, three models in transparent black bodysuits, bras and bustiers were posed on circular platforms that slowly spun around. Cher, who was front-row center, clearly loved it.
PACO RABANNE: Metal Master Paco began with understated fake fur coats and bizarrely proportioned velvet suits. He hit his stride with a string of racy silver leather dresses that had the photographers screaming and a slew of metal mesh cocktail dresses. The loudspeakers blasted disco throughout the show — but, given the materials on display, it should have been Metallica.