Designers raised the temperature in more ways than one for fall, showing tailored looks that had a steamy undercurrent or cozy knits just right for a snow day.
Giorgio Armani: Sex sells. It's an age-old adage proven true again and again. Fold into the mix a certain refinement — not to mention some divinely cut jackets — and you've got a recipe for chic a lot of women will love. That's the notion Giorgio Armani is banking on for fall — and his banking seldom goes awry.
The collection Armani showed on Monday afternoon centered around a single daytime concept — the sexy suit. It came skintight with a short, flirtatious jacket and fanny-hugging skirt — delivered with an unmistakable Forties woman-of-mystery attitude. Thus the satellite dish hats tilted just so on the forehead and ankle-strap platforms punctuating the hourglass shape.
Though the silhouette was constant, Armani kept it interesting with assorted flourishes — hip drape here, hem flounce there — and a wealth of fabric combinations worked in an upbeat palette of warm grays and blues shot with brights. Men's wear patterns played against solids with relative discretion — glen plaid over dove gray silk — or against gussied up fabrics to wild effect — engineered pinstripes over mitered purple and green velvet stripes. Either way, the results were high on steam while maintaining at least a surface propriety. On the down side, at times the designer tinkered too much with details: peculiar spills of ruffles down the front that overwhelmed the skinny-minnie rear view; an overblown black and white checked number only a NASCAR wife could love.
Evening, too had its bloopers — awkward bubble skirts, anyone? But these were countered by plenty of graceful alternatives for which Armani dropped the hourglass in favor of a new take on glam — lavishly embroidered gowns with small bodices and skirts that fanned outward gently, stopping well above the ankles. A daring Oscar night proposal for Ziyi Zhang, who sat in the front row, leading the applause? Time will tell.
D&G: Surely in the D&G showroom this week there'll be no business like snow business. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana buried their runway in a virtual avalanche of cozy knits, all done up in a tasteful shades of ivory and white and shown against a wintery backdrop of frosted evergreens and heaped white powder. An oversized cardigan twinkling with icy sparkles perfectly set the mood, though the flurries of mohair, angora and cashmere never let up, with cableknit bodysuits, legwarmers and knit-trimmed skating skirts as well as sweaters that came out in every imaginable shape and size.On the lighter side, a series of dresses layered with crocheted lace and sheer organza played to a girlish mood. Meanwhile, cropped parkas and Fair Isle sweaters glazed with sequins kept faith with the brand's clubby roots, as did T-shirts printed with an image taken from Madonna's "Sorry" video. Never a pair to shy away from a little fashion-fueled camp, in keeping with their theme, the designers topped things off by sending out Santa Claus himself, accompanied by a troupe of snow bunnies dressed in Merry Christmas T-shirts. While the timing of such holiday cheer might seem a little odd, the designers' joyful sentiments are certainly in the right place.
Salvatore Ferragamo: What happened to pretty and polished? While it may be interesting for a midcareer designer like Salvatore Ferragamo's Graeme Black to venture forth and try on a different mood, that kind of experimentation doesn't always work on the runway. For fall, Black took a sharp turn, veering away from last season's fine-honed subtlety with a look that was vaguely retro. However, his hints at modishness — including a slew of oddball evening frocks — came across as studiously cumbersome and fairly drained of any fun.
In fact, what looked just right were charming ruffled knits, slim pencil skirts and pleated party dresses, especially one in inky blue, which served as delicate reminders of some of the designer's previous success at the house. As his fans know, Black has a talent for refinement — and he should let it shine.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye