Designers raised the temperature in more ways than one for fall, showing tailored looks that had a steamy undercurrent or cozy knits just right for a snow day.
Giorgio Armani: Sex sells. It's an age-old adage proven true again and again. Fold into the mix a certain refinement — not to mention some divinely cut jackets — and you've got a recipe for chic a lot of women will love. That's the notion Giorgio Armani is banking on for fall — and his banking seldom goes awry.
The collection Armani showed on Monday afternoon centered around a single daytime concept — the sexy suit. It came skintight with a short, flirtatious jacket and fanny-hugging skirt — delivered with an unmistakable Forties woman-of-mystery attitude. Thus the satellite dish hats tilted just so on the forehead and ankle-strap platforms punctuating the hourglass shape.
Though the silhouette was constant, Armani kept it interesting with assorted flourishes — hip drape here, hem flounce there — and a wealth of fabric combinations worked in an upbeat palette of warm grays and blues shot with brights. Men's wear patterns played against solids with relative discretion — glen plaid over dove gray silk — or against gussied up fabrics to wild effect — engineered pinstripes over mitered purple and green velvet stripes. Either way, the results were high on steam while maintaining at least a surface propriety. On the down side, at times the designer tinkered too much with details: peculiar spills of ruffles down the front that overwhelmed the skinny-minnie rear view; an overblown black and white checked number only a NASCAR wife could love.
Evening, too had its bloopers — awkward bubble skirts, anyone? But these were countered by plenty of graceful alternatives for which Armani dropped the hourglass in favor of a new take on glam — lavishly embroidered gowns with small bodices and skirts that fanned outward gently, stopping well above the ankles. A daring Oscar night proposal for Ziyi Zhang, who sat in the front row, leading the applause? Time will tell.
D&G: Surely in the D&G showroom this week there'll be no business like snow business. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana buried their runway in a virtual avalanche of cozy knits, all done up in a tasteful shades of ivory and white and shown against a wintery backdrop of frosted evergreens and heaped white powder. An oversized cardigan twinkling with icy sparkles perfectly set the mood, though the flurries of mohair, angora and cashmere never let up, with cableknit bodysuits, legwarmers and knit-trimmed skating skirts as well as sweaters that came out in every imaginable shape and size.On the lighter side, a series of dresses layered with crocheted lace and sheer organza played to a girlish mood. Meanwhile, cropped parkas and Fair Isle sweaters glazed with sequins kept faith with the brand's clubby roots, as did T-shirts printed with an image taken from Madonna's "Sorry" video. Never a pair to shy away from a little fashion-fueled camp, in keeping with their theme, the designers topped things off by sending out Santa Claus himself, accompanied by a troupe of snow bunnies dressed in Merry Christmas T-shirts. While the timing of such holiday cheer might seem a little odd, the designers' joyful sentiments are certainly in the right place.
Salvatore Ferragamo: What happened to pretty and polished? While it may be interesting for a midcareer designer like Salvatore Ferragamo's Graeme Black to venture forth and try on a different mood, that kind of experimentation doesn't always work on the runway. For fall, Black took a sharp turn, veering away from last season's fine-honed subtlety with a look that was vaguely retro. However, his hints at modishness — including a slew of oddball evening frocks — came across as studiously cumbersome and fairly drained of any fun.
In fact, what looked just right were charming ruffled knits, slim pencil skirts and pleated party dresses, especially one in inky blue, which served as delicate reminders of some of the designer's previous success at the house. As his fans know, Black has a talent for refinement — and he should let it shine.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)