LONDON — With London Fashion Week just around the corner, the city’s accessories scene is gathering some momentum, with the planned opening of Lara Bohinc’s first store and a new joint venture between Markus Lupfer and Katie Hillier...
LONDON — With London Fashion Week just around the corner, the city’s accessories scene is gathering some momentum, with the planned opening of Lara Bohinc’s first store and a new joint venture between Markus Lupfer and Katie Hillier for a line of accessories.
Bohinc, who has made runway jewelry for Gucci, Costume National and Julien Macdonald, is set to open the store, Lara Bohinc 107, next month. The shop will be in Alexander McQueen’s former basement studio at 51 Hoxton Square, near such arty destinations as the White Cube 2 and the Victoria Miro and Stand Point galleries.
The Slovenian-born designer said she was determined to find a site away from the city center and main shopping streets, which is why she chose the quirky Hoxton neighborhood.
"It would have been my worst nightmare to have a major retail shop with a staff of 10 to look after," said Bohinc. "I wanted to create something more unpredictable than just a shop space, more like a gallery, but without being pretentious. Here I can do that."
Bohinc, who graduated from the Royal College of Art and launched her line in 1997, said the shop will feature "teaser displays" throughout the corridor and stairs leading down to the basement shop. There will be display cases, a relaxation corner with a sofa and coffee table and a traditional desk for consumers to sit down and examine the jewelry. There will also be a slide projection that will change with each season and a walk-through lighting system that is activated by sensors and triggered by visitors.
The space was designed by architectural firm Elastik, which is run by Igor Kebel and Mika Cimolini, who are old friends and fellow Slovenians.
As for the merchandise mix, the unit will not just feature her signature metal and Plexiglas jewelry, but it will also be the launching pad for Bohinc’s new sunglass collection. Bohinc designed the line in collaboration with IC-Berlin, the German eyewear company known for inventing the unbreakable hinge.
"I’m obsessed with sunglasses, so I’m having so much fun working on it," she said. "We’re using sheet metal for the line. It’s ultralight — and it’s also a material that I work with every day in my jewelry designs, so it fits in well with the collection."Currently, her jewelry sells at Language in New York and Harvey Nichols and Koh Samui in London.
"I would love to do shoes next," she said. "It would be fun to do something new. With accessories, especially, I always think that you can apply what you know to something different and learn the rest from other people."
Lupfer and Hillier, meanwhile, are planning to launch their collaborative accessories effort — billed "Katie Hillier for Markus Lupfer" — during London Fashion Week, set for Sept. 12-17.
The new line will feature hats, jewelry and gloves. For spring, Lupfer wanted a natural but modern look to fit in with his collection, so Hillier responded with jewelry made from a mix of Plexiglas and wood, and hats fashioned from straw.
"The advantage of designing together was that we knew each others’ tastes really well, so once it was decided who designed what, the design stage flowed easily," Lupfer said. "But it was difficult at first because we didn’t want to confuse Katie’s line with my own line of accessories."
The two decided not to overlap the categories: Belts, bags, scarves and shoes, for example, are part of Lupfer’s main line and not part of the collaboration.
The duo have been pals for 10 years — ever since their days at the University of Westminster. Soon after finishing the same course, they went their separate ways. Lupfer started his own label, and Hillier worked for Luella Bartley designing accessories and fronting her p.r. department. When Hillier left Luella earlier this year, she started working with Lupfer. The partners are aiming for 10 retail outlets worldwide in the first season.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews