LONDON — With London Fashion Week just around the corner, the city’s accessories scene is gathering some momentum, with the planned opening of Lara Bohinc’s first store and a new joint venture between Markus Lupfer and Katie Hillier...
LONDON — With London Fashion Week just around the corner, the city’s accessories scene is gathering some momentum, with the planned opening of Lara Bohinc’s first store and a new joint venture between Markus Lupfer and Katie Hillier for a line of accessories.
Bohinc, who has made runway jewelry for Gucci, Costume National and Julien Macdonald, is set to open the store, Lara Bohinc 107, next month. The shop will be in Alexander McQueen’s former basement studio at 51 Hoxton Square, near such arty destinations as the White Cube 2 and the Victoria Miro and Stand Point galleries.
The Slovenian-born designer said she was determined to find a site away from the city center and main shopping streets, which is why she chose the quirky Hoxton neighborhood.
"It would have been my worst nightmare to have a major retail shop with a staff of 10 to look after," said Bohinc. "I wanted to create something more unpredictable than just a shop space, more like a gallery, but without being pretentious. Here I can do that."
Bohinc, who graduated from the Royal College of Art and launched her line in 1997, said the shop will feature "teaser displays" throughout the corridor and stairs leading down to the basement shop. There will be display cases, a relaxation corner with a sofa and coffee table and a traditional desk for consumers to sit down and examine the jewelry. There will also be a slide projection that will change with each season and a walk-through lighting system that is activated by sensors and triggered by visitors.
The space was designed by architectural firm Elastik, which is run by Igor Kebel and Mika Cimolini, who are old friends and fellow Slovenians.
As for the merchandise mix, the unit will not just feature her signature metal and Plexiglas jewelry, but it will also be the launching pad for Bohinc’s new sunglass collection. Bohinc designed the line in collaboration with IC-Berlin, the German eyewear company known for inventing the unbreakable hinge.
"I’m obsessed with sunglasses, so I’m having so much fun working on it," she said. "We’re using sheet metal for the line. It’s ultralight — and it’s also a material that I work with every day in my jewelry designs, so it fits in well with the collection."Currently, her jewelry sells at Language in New York and Harvey Nichols and Koh Samui in London.
"I would love to do shoes next," she said. "It would be fun to do something new. With accessories, especially, I always think that you can apply what you know to something different and learn the rest from other people."
Lupfer and Hillier, meanwhile, are planning to launch their collaborative accessories effort — billed "Katie Hillier for Markus Lupfer" — during London Fashion Week, set for Sept. 12-17.
The new line will feature hats, jewelry and gloves. For spring, Lupfer wanted a natural but modern look to fit in with his collection, so Hillier responded with jewelry made from a mix of Plexiglas and wood, and hats fashioned from straw.
"The advantage of designing together was that we knew each others’ tastes really well, so once it was decided who designed what, the design stage flowed easily," Lupfer said. "But it was difficult at first because we didn’t want to confuse Katie’s line with my own line of accessories."
The two decided not to overlap the categories: Belts, bags, scarves and shoes, for example, are part of Lupfer’s main line and not part of the collaboration.
The duo have been pals for 10 years — ever since their days at the University of Westminster. Soon after finishing the same course, they went their separate ways. Lupfer started his own label, and Hillier worked for Luella Bartley designing accessories and fronting her p.r. department. When Hillier left Luella earlier this year, she started working with Lupfer. The partners are aiming for 10 retail outlets worldwide in the first season.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews