NEW YORK — While straightforward pretty clothes are playing an important role on the spring runways, there are other notions afoot. Some shows, for example, feature highly unusual themes, including such outré influences as the writings of...
NEW YORK — While straightforward pretty clothes are playing an important role on the spring runways, there are other notions afoot. Some shows, for example, feature highly unusual themes, including such outré influences as the writings of Friedrich Nietzsche and the life of a notorious criminal. Who ever said that fashion was all fluff?
For starters, Patrick Rzepski’s muse this season was the recently deceased murderer Myra Hindley, labeled “the most hated woman in Britain” by that country’s tabloid press. Rzepski’s show, called, “We Miss You Myra,” opened with a look inspired by a dress worn by one of Hindley’s victims, whose body was found buried in the ground. The designer’s version was a tattered, strapless fuchsia number, which, he reports, was interred in his parents’ backyard for optimal effect. The disturbing theme of the show aside, Rzepski’s work this season shows admirable improvement. The silhouettes were more polished and straightforward, with great skirts, strapless pintucked and pleated dresses and a beautiful floor-length backless evening number.
Meanwhile, as if there weren’t enough pornographic imagery this week, Mary Jo Diehl’s second collection for House of Diehl featured preachers making obscene gestures, masturbating models and Amanda Lepore as the Virgin Mary draped in a candy-colored LV scarf.
Diehl, who studied philosophy at Wesleyan, asked her audience to think beyond good and evil, apparently à la the German philosopher, and featured a tag line “The Designer Is Dead.” While the tube dresses, trousers made of sewn-together button-down shirts and tops made of measuring tape were not exactly retail fare, the show was amusing.
Elsewhere, although Manuel Fernandez might seem eccentric, it was clear that his inventiveness doesn’t come at the cost of craft or cohesion. This was a show with a message: black-and-white, yet festive; full of ideas, and simmering with sexy shapes and details. Such looks as short white leather kimonos, bikinis under black perforated cardigans or maillots accented with flowers may not be practical, but they sure are fun. The designer’s Spanish spirit surfaced in skinny, matador-inspired pedal-pushers; white jackets with bright hand-embroidered flowers; fringed scarf skirts, and sheer peasant tops.At Renaldo, designer Renaldo Barnette may have just shown his first collection, but he has clearly been on or behind the scenes for years. He was at Anne Klein for some time, assisted at Tuleh and Nicole Miller, and for 12 years has been teaching design and fashion art at the Fashion Institute of Technology. His broad experience was reflected in his confident 25-piece spring collection, sanely priced — to retail from $120 to $500 — in simple shapes with lots of charm. Shirtjackets or trenchcoats looked terrific over miniskirts in chintz-finished black wool. The best jersey looks were the sportiest: long-sleeved shirt rompers or minidresses and a floor-length polo-shirt version. “I still like the simplicity of a T-shirt,” Barnette said. “If minimalism is dead, it died with me.”
Speaking of the notion that less is more, however, and considering the impossible schedule this week, such items as Miho Nikado’s charming sailor swimsuit, pretty tennis dress and cute box-pleated minidress don’t really add up to enough to merit a formal show.
Mary Ping, on the other hand, sent out a tight, artistic collection of Ts and T-shirt dresses, primarily in cottons and silks. The dolman-sleeved tops, cuffed shorts and cutout dresses were all strong, although Ping did have a bit of a Hussein Chalayan moment.
Gen Art was awash in sponsors to celebrate its 10th anniversary. Lars Andersson had plenty of interesting knit tops with strings draped into a scalloped effect, and Alistair Carr showed his oversized lavender ruffled jacket. But Annelore stole the show with cute skirts and cross-back pieces that had a retro flair. Overall, these young designers may have a long road ahead, but as is usually the case with Gen Art’s roster, the future looks bright.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)