Stop the dancers! The presumably mood-setting modern troupe not only got in the way of the Umasan models and photographers, but distracted from some of the best black gear to be seen in Berlin this season. The black shirt was a star of twin sisters Anja and Sandra Umann’s vegan and sustainable collection, cut identically for men and women to skim the thighs in front, with a long-tailed back and worn with narrow, padded cotton bottoms.
And while only shown on a man, the white bibbed, knee-length version had all-gender appeal. The makeup and a plethora of drapy and hooded garments gave this collection, dubbed Seasons of Life, a somewhat other-worldly and sometimes downright druidical feel.
In contrast, the sisters’ more crisply constructed jackets and coats borrowed — and demilitarized — elements from old Prussian uniforms for a cultivated yet alternative look.