While most vegan enthusiasts can’t wait to extoll those feel-good benefits, identical-twin-sister designers Anja and Sandra Umann seem more drawn to the dark side. They delivered their spring Umasan collection to the purposely discordant tones of a singer and string quartet with verses from Dante’s “Inferno” featured on the wall. The male and female models sported a red stripe down their faces and many wore menacing headgear. Yet the clothes, all sustainable, were the tamest part of the show. Worked in the designers’ typical black-and-white palette, this time with shots of rust, the shirts looked refreshingly crisp, the fluid knit jersey pieces comfortably droopy and the long frock coat variations interestingly old world. The pants came in silhouettes cut short or long, narrow or wide.

Nonetheless, there was a real sense of déjà vu here. Like many of Germany’s emerging and independent young labels, the Umasan designers tend to do what they do best, and do it over and over again. It would be nice to see a further progression next season.

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