DKNY: Donna Karan has dressing for a smart city girl down pat. Hers is an effortless, throw-on chic (to crib from her show notes) with silhouettes that went from long, slouchy tweeds to short, swingy chiffons, all of them flirty and wearable in a dark palette with shots of bright pink, yellow and purple. As her fall collection illustrated, Karan doesn't need to rely on overt bells and whistles to keep things interesting, though a sense of whimsy — hello, red-and-pink heart-printed blouse — and a few spangles, like a sequined tunic, are always welcome. And being the confident woman she is, Karan is unafraid to try a new way of layering, seen in the crisp dress shirts worn under tiny chiffon dresses with plunging V-necks. But more importantly, while New York girls have and will continue to wear DKNY, so will the girls living outside of the five boroughs.

Nicole Miller: To mark her 25th anniversary, Nicole Miller sent out a strong collection that celebrated those signature bright prints she loves, while introducing a young, fashion-conscious direction. Peru was her theme du jour, and she expressed it beautifully in the show-opening stiff jacquard coat done in a striking black-on-ivory blanket pattern, which she echoed a few more times to chic effect on skirts paired with crisp white shirts. She found balance between her love of embellishment and a cleaner look, proving that she can turn out the kind of clothes — like that adorable peacoat — a city sophisticate would snap up. And when she finally did show some of her classic, bold numbers, they served as a sweet reminder of what Miller's many fans fell for in the first place.

Baby Phat and KLS by Kimora Lee Simmons: It was more of the same from Kimora Lee Simmons — and not just her obsession with the front row. Despite the addition of the new KLS contemporary line on the runway, this Russian-inspired show was all about "fabulosity," Kimora style — which is to say flash, flash and more flash. Even black denim was embroidered beyond recognition. Once or twice, however, Simmons did open a tiny window to her tamer side, with wide-leg tweed trousers and lean suits.Josh Goot: In just his second New York outing, Aussie Josh Goot captured the heart of the Gotham girl with a nicely edited collection of all-black urban warrior fare in various lean, mean and fantastically tough-chic silhouettes.

Lacoste: Lacoste's Christophe Lemaire offered up some terrific outerwear looks — short rubberized raincoats, bright padded jackets, bulky cardigans — amusingly accessorized with French sportif knit caps and suede granny boots, but as a whole, the collection lacked the spirit of recent seasons.

Chris Han: The first few looks were a promising beginning for Chris Han — especially the cropped cream jacket with a vintage flair — but at times, she got a little tricky with her jarring fabric mixes.

Rag & Bone: Marcus Wainright and David Neville showed another well-tailored, salable Rag & Bone collection, this time infusing a bit of a chic-librarian-meets-Mod English girl, as in the great tweed skinny pants and jacket.

Ruffian: Brian Wolk and Claude Morais' "new-Beat generation" looks for Ruffian felt a tad flat, save for the fresh high-waisted trouser looks and a racy top-and-skirt combo.

Alice Roi: The Alice Roi girl was a bit darker this season, as mixed-media chunky knits and draped skirts made for a more sophisticated but still quirky collection

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus