PARIS — Surrounded by her tearful studio and models in butterfly-embroidered gowns, Hanae Mori — the so-called Japanese “Butterfly”— bid a graceful sayonara to the Paris couture, where she had been a faithful fixture since 1977. Reprising many of her time-tested themes, Mori offered fetching kimono-print dresses and tasteful tailoring. Such looks as her gold chiffon caftan printed with herons and the black dress with embroidered flowers will leave good memories.

Elsewhere, in an effort to broaden his appeal, Dominique Sirop introduced a so-called semicouture line, or pieces that take only one fitting. Sixteen of these looks started the show, from suits with corset details to cocktail dresses with asymmetric hems that had a quiet chicness. With his “real” couture, Sirop offered sculptural chiffon gowns, many playing with a corsetry theme, too. He was best when simplest, as in a silver gown with off-center pleats.

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