PARIS — Surrounded by her tearful studio and models in butterfly-embroidered gowns, Hanae Mori — the so-called Japanese “Butterfly”— bid a graceful sayonara to the Paris couture, where she had been a faithful...
PARIS — Surrounded by her tearful studio and models in butterfly-embroidered gowns, Hanae Mori — the so-called Japanese “Butterfly”— bid a graceful sayonara to the Paris couture, where she had been a faithful fixture since 1977. Reprising many of her time-tested themes, Mori offered fetching kimono-print dresses and tasteful tailoring. Such looks as her gold chiffon caftan printed with herons and the black dress with embroidered flowers will leave good memories.
Elsewhere, in an effort to broaden his appeal, Dominique Sirop introduced a so-called semicouture line, or pieces that take only one fitting. Sixteen of these looks started the show, from suits with corset details to cocktail dresses with asymmetric hems that had a quiet chicness. With his “real” couture, Sirop offered sculptural chiffon gowns, many playing with a corsetry theme, too. He was best when simplest, as in a silver gown with off-center pleats.
Jean-Louis Scherrer is one of the rare houses here that claims to make a profit with couture. Over the past few years, its couturier, Stephane Roland, has carved out a niche with plunging evening gowns and form-fitting tailoring for day. He continued in that vein for fall, adding a Surrealist theme that brought embroidered lips and enormous bows on gowns. Fox-trimmed coats, slinky smoking dresses and long, tiered chiffon gowns in green and pink are sure to please his clients.
Franck Sorbier did what he does best: elegant gowns with hints of distant lands. There was charm in his long hand-painted silk confections, flowing silk trousers and rich velour jackets, and form-fitting bustier dresses.
Stephanie Coudert, who was sponsored by Christian Dior to enter the couture fray, made her runway debut with an artsy collection of bias-cut confections and dresses of layered chiffon with asymmetrical hems. There was a futuristic feeling in the leather patchwork on a silk skirt, while a recycled leather bomber jacket converted into a dress had a vintage flavor.
Laurent Mercier, the former couturier at Balmain, which is currently in bankruptcy protection, made a comeback as his old cross-dressing alter ego, Lola. As is to be expected, the clothes were over-the-top, with cabaret-style bodysuits decorated with feathers and long “post-surgery” coats. Mercier, in full makeup and a silver wig, took a bow in a small nurse dress.Meanwhile, Trash Couture, which has been generating buzz since Roberto Henrichsen and Ann Wiberg launched it two years ago, staged its first runway show here in a small cafe in the Marais. Long, lean gowns were intricately embroidered with feathers and sequins, while lace embellished others. The designers have refined their manner of recycling old fabrics and turning them into one-of-a-kind creations.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)