In this city, there’s always something for everyone. Behnaz Sarafpour turned on the charm, Jess Holzworth updated the Ziegfield girl and Alireza snapped a picture of Dorian Gray. And for good measure, Gaelyn and Cianfarani remembered to...
In this city, there’s always something for everyone. Behnaz Sarafpour turned on the charm, Jess Holzworth updated the Ziegfield girl and Alireza snapped a picture of Dorian Gray. And for good measure, Gaelyn and Cianfarani remembered to recycle.
Behnaz Sarafpour: By now, we’re familiar with Behnaz Sarafpour’s young artistic spirit and her insatiable desire to create artful collections. Sometimes she has triumphed and sometimes missed the mark, but she continues to arouse curiosity each season. For fall, Sarafpour wowed with her little suits with cropped pants; charming black coats and jackets sprinkled with gold sequins, and her craftsy ivory wool cardigan, glistening with golden sparkles. Even her details were flawless: dresses or skirts had contrast-colored waistbands, there was reversed seaming, swirling organza ruffles and tulle peeking out from under hems of skirts or coats. Unfortunately, the designer’s ballet moment didn’t quite work. The tulle skirts and gowns were a bit over-the-top, best-suited to the venue that inspired them: dance class.
Douglas Hannant: It’s not really clear for what age group Hannant designs. Older? Younger? Youngish? The clothes this season sometimes looked chic and young, and, at other times, seemed dated even in an obvious attempt to be fresh. But the focus was clear and bright with his crisp, beautifully designed luncheon suits, simple, long charmeuse gowns and outstanding suedes, especially a topstitched terra-cotta trenchcoat worn over a short chiffon Art Deco-print dress. Hannant seemed most inspired, however, working with fluid fabrics in such looks as a black jersey dress with long sleeves and subtle beaded edges or a green bias-cut panne velvet version. His weak spots were the too-constricted shapes and overembellished fabrics.
Rena Lange: This season marks the 50th anniversary of the German-based firm Rena Lange. And for fall, designer James Waldron, in his third season at the company, showed a strong collection featuring schoolgirl pleated skirts in buttery suede or corduroy, and charming black cocktail dresses in lace or satin trimmed with satin ribbon. The house’s signature bouclé jackets and suits got a facelift this time around, looking young and fresh in ivory with tulle edging. But the denim group was the real news here, with pants, skirts and jackets that had heart pockets or asymmetric seaming, all shown with chunky, cozy cashmere sweaters. For evening, there were svelte velvet suits with superslim pants and little jackets with portrait necklines. Waldron even indulged in a brief Mod moment with a charming black suit with big white buttons.
Jess Holzworth: A new sophistication marked Jess Holzworth’s fall collection, which she presented on mannequins in a West Chelsea gallery on Monday.
The small collection packed a big wallop. Draped satin looks boasted a simple elegance, including a sleek black capelet worn with a black satin shift, perfect for a more minimalist modern-day Ziegfeld girl. Meanwhile, a minidress that looked like an elongated satin baseball jacket gave Holzworth’s look a playful touch. Holzworth, who lives in Los Angeles, said she was inspired by Rudi Gernreich, Kenneth Anger films and hip-hop. "It’s magic hip-hop," she said.
Liz Goldwyn helped Holzworth with her presentation, and the designer wore her friend’s vintage Chanel pearls to the event, while Goldwyn wore a fluid white satin gown designed by Holzworth.
Goldwyn, who is currently working on a documentary about the burlesque, had another dance discipline in mind. "It’s all about ballet," she said, lifting up her featherweight dress to show off a leotard and pair of tights underneath.
Alireza: Things seem to be coming together nicely for Alireza Massoumnia’s three-year-old eponymous collection. For fall, he looked to Oscar Wilde’s dashing but vain Dorian Gray, as well an English gentleman’s old attic for inspiration. But there was nothing stuffy or musty about what he uncovered. His strength is tailoring, best seen in a sharp rust corduroy blazer, an artfully pleated skirt and smart tuxedo looks, including a sexy waistcoat and short-sleeved jacket. And while he blew the dust off old-fashioned tailoring, he also showed some standout eveningwear — a dress made from 200 yards of ruffled lace painted in smokey hues and a wool gown with a metal chain front panel fashioned by jeweler Desi Santiago. With all the references to English heirlooms and tailoring, the collection did at times ring a wee bit McQueen, but it was unique enough to keep from calling out the guards.
Palmer Jones: Blonde identical twins Kathryn and Lindy Jones, who won the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award this year, rounded up some unusual suspects for their show at Christie’s on Sunday night. Their distinctive presentation, which used five models in a fashion riff on a criminal lineup, was intended to showcase their elegant jewel-thief theme. Looks ranged from a dressy utility skirt and jacket to a velvet evening dress laced with fake gems. There were lots of vintage-style details — like the pretty bird embroidery scattered on coats — which are a trademark of the Joneses, who have been in business for three-and-a-half years. Some things didn’t work, such as the layered beaded scarf over pants, which was too heavy, and the unattractive brocades. But for a first show, it was a good effort, and this duo is worth watching.
Gaelyn and Cianfarani: With the sponsorship of PETA, East Village designers Genevieve Gaelyn and Atom Cianfarani showed their fall collection, "Couture with a Cause," on Tuesday. Their approach was innovative, splicing gauzy cotton with strips of black rubber that came via New York’s Recycle-a-Bicycle, a nonprofit organization that teaches teens how to repair bicycles. Strips of tire rubber made up spliced pants or detailed a romantic ruffled dress, which also featured a simple rubber rosette. Of course, this soon became a little — you guessed it — tired.
But then Gaelyn and Cianfarani showed off their latex gear, made from the naughty stuff that’s their preferred medium. One after another, out came dresses variously ruffled and draped, or simply stretched taut and vampy like Barbie clothes cut from a Fruit Roll-up. While the show’s excruciatingly slow pace left some grumbling about cruelty to editors, every look, down to the belled latex wedding dress, was well-made and intriguing.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye