In this city, there’s always something for everyone. Behnaz Sarafpour turned on the charm, Jess Holzworth updated the Ziegfield girl and Alireza snapped a picture of Dorian Gray. And for good measure, Gaelyn and Cianfarani remembered to...
In this city, there’s always something for everyone. Behnaz Sarafpour turned on the charm, Jess Holzworth updated the Ziegfield girl and Alireza snapped a picture of Dorian Gray. And for good measure, Gaelyn and Cianfarani remembered to recycle.
Behnaz Sarafpour: By now, we’re familiar with Behnaz Sarafpour’s young artistic spirit and her insatiable desire to create artful collections. Sometimes she has triumphed and sometimes missed the mark, but she continues to arouse curiosity each season. For fall, Sarafpour wowed with her little suits with cropped pants; charming black coats and jackets sprinkled with gold sequins, and her craftsy ivory wool cardigan, glistening with golden sparkles. Even her details were flawless: dresses or skirts had contrast-colored waistbands, there was reversed seaming, swirling organza ruffles and tulle peeking out from under hems of skirts or coats. Unfortunately, the designer’s ballet moment didn’t quite work. The tulle skirts and gowns were a bit over-the-top, best-suited to the venue that inspired them: dance class.
Douglas Hannant: It’s not really clear for what age group Hannant designs. Older? Younger? Youngish? The clothes this season sometimes looked chic and young, and, at other times, seemed dated even in an obvious attempt to be fresh. But the focus was clear and bright with his crisp, beautifully designed luncheon suits, simple, long charmeuse gowns and outstanding suedes, especially a topstitched terra-cotta trenchcoat worn over a short chiffon Art Deco-print dress. Hannant seemed most inspired, however, working with fluid fabrics in such looks as a black jersey dress with long sleeves and subtle beaded edges or a green bias-cut panne velvet version. His weak spots were the too-constricted shapes and overembellished fabrics.
Rena Lange: This season marks the 50th anniversary of the German-based firm Rena Lange. And for fall, designer James Waldron, in his third season at the company, showed a strong collection featuring schoolgirl pleated skirts in buttery suede or corduroy, and charming black cocktail dresses in lace or satin trimmed with satin ribbon. The house’s signature bouclé jackets and suits got a facelift this time around, looking young and fresh in ivory with tulle edging. But the denim group was the real news here, with pants, skirts and jackets that had heart pockets or asymmetric seaming, all shown with chunky, cozy cashmere sweaters. For evening, there were svelte velvet suits with superslim pants and little jackets with portrait necklines. Waldron even indulged in a brief Mod moment with a charming black suit with big white buttons.
Jess Holzworth: A new sophistication marked Jess Holzworth’s fall collection, which she presented on mannequins in a West Chelsea gallery on Monday.
The small collection packed a big wallop. Draped satin looks boasted a simple elegance, including a sleek black capelet worn with a black satin shift, perfect for a more minimalist modern-day Ziegfeld girl. Meanwhile, a minidress that looked like an elongated satin baseball jacket gave Holzworth’s look a playful touch. Holzworth, who lives in Los Angeles, said she was inspired by Rudi Gernreich, Kenneth Anger films and hip-hop. "It’s magic hip-hop," she said.
Liz Goldwyn helped Holzworth with her presentation, and the designer wore her friend’s vintage Chanel pearls to the event, while Goldwyn wore a fluid white satin gown designed by Holzworth.
Goldwyn, who is currently working on a documentary about the burlesque, had another dance discipline in mind. "It’s all about ballet," she said, lifting up her featherweight dress to show off a leotard and pair of tights underneath.
Alireza: Things seem to be coming together nicely for Alireza Massoumnia’s three-year-old eponymous collection. For fall, he looked to Oscar Wilde’s dashing but vain Dorian Gray, as well an English gentleman’s old attic for inspiration. But there was nothing stuffy or musty about what he uncovered. His strength is tailoring, best seen in a sharp rust corduroy blazer, an artfully pleated skirt and smart tuxedo looks, including a sexy waistcoat and short-sleeved jacket. And while he blew the dust off old-fashioned tailoring, he also showed some standout eveningwear — a dress made from 200 yards of ruffled lace painted in smokey hues and a wool gown with a metal chain front panel fashioned by jeweler Desi Santiago. With all the references to English heirlooms and tailoring, the collection did at times ring a wee bit McQueen, but it was unique enough to keep from calling out the guards.
Palmer Jones: Blonde identical twins Kathryn and Lindy Jones, who won the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award this year, rounded up some unusual suspects for their show at Christie’s on Sunday night. Their distinctive presentation, which used five models in a fashion riff on a criminal lineup, was intended to showcase their elegant jewel-thief theme. Looks ranged from a dressy utility skirt and jacket to a velvet evening dress laced with fake gems. There were lots of vintage-style details — like the pretty bird embroidery scattered on coats — which are a trademark of the Joneses, who have been in business for three-and-a-half years. Some things didn’t work, such as the layered beaded scarf over pants, which was too heavy, and the unattractive brocades. But for a first show, it was a good effort, and this duo is worth watching.
Gaelyn and Cianfarani: With the sponsorship of PETA, East Village designers Genevieve Gaelyn and Atom Cianfarani showed their fall collection, "Couture with a Cause," on Tuesday. Their approach was innovative, splicing gauzy cotton with strips of black rubber that came via New York’s Recycle-a-Bicycle, a nonprofit organization that teaches teens how to repair bicycles. Strips of tire rubber made up spliced pants or detailed a romantic ruffled dress, which also featured a simple rubber rosette. Of course, this soon became a little — you guessed it — tired.
But then Gaelyn and Cianfarani showed off their latex gear, made from the naughty stuff that’s their preferred medium. One after another, out came dresses variously ruffled and draped, or simply stretched taut and vampy like Barbie clothes cut from a Fruit Roll-up. While the show’s excruciatingly slow pace left some grumbling about cruelty to editors, every look, down to the belled latex wedding dress, was well-made and intriguing.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty