Rebecca Taylor: After seasons of playing to rock ’n’ roll muses, Rebecca Taylor is showing signs of homesickness for her native
New Zealand, particularly its glorious crystal waters. And who can blame her? But just because life isn’t always a beach doesn’t mean a girl can’t indulge in a sea-nymph reverie, which is what Taylor did in her collection, shown against the wall-to-wall fishtank at the Coral Room and a calm ocean backdrop.
Taylor champions a kind of approachable romance with a strong enough current of hip to keep her ultra-girly clientele coming back for more. Though they might find the abalone and scale prints a bit mumsy, they will surely love the floaty chiffon dresses in dusty pastels encrusted with sequins and antique beads, as well as little capelet jackets, cropped sweaters and skirts with iridescent insets. And to keep things interesting, Taylor worked some traditional Kiwi symbols, such as the Maori fishhook and the fern-like koru, into her simple yet striking jewelry.
GF Ferré: Gianfranco Ferré said last week that his curiosity about the young had prompted the creation of the GF Ferré line for men and women under his new deal with IT Holding. Originally presented during men’s fashion week in Milan, the show was directed by actress Asia Argento, best known for her role opposite Vin Diesel in the action-adventure film “XXX.” But as searing heavy metal riffs filled the air of the black-paneled Bryant tent, it appeared that much of Argento’s own hard-edged punk aesthetic had found its way into the collection.
Models posed in lean, mean Eighties-inspired silhouettes in strong colors, but this gambit simply made it look as though Ferré was trying too hard. A chainmail group, for example, offered Mod-ish minidresses with shots of fluorescent color that suggested early Stephen Sprouse, while straps and zippers adorned denim and leather minis, bustiers and motorcycle jackets. An oversized slouchy leather vest over cropped pants, techy sneakers and leather accessories looked fresher, but not enough to overcome the feeling that this vision of the future has been seen before.
Zang Toi: Whimsy has its limits. So does the deep blue sea, at least when it comes to fashion inspiration. In the collection he showed on Saturday evening, Zang Toi took his oceanic musings a tad too far. On one hand, you’ve got to love a wildly indiscreet kelly green sequined mermaid skirt, while on the other, so many au naturale sea shells and coral branches embroidered on the backside of jeans must hurt when a girl sits down. But then, Zang doesn’t design for the faint of heart, and built his business catering to a woman who likes a little flash. His “Mistress of the Mediterranean” offered plenty, from sea-printed swimwear to those coral-encrusted denims and lovely, glamorous gowns.Still, the riches of the sea can prove a bit too dear for some fashion lovers. Which is why Zang introduced a group of what he called “fun, fresh, adorable and affordable” pieces that payed homage to every girl’s one-time fantasy, the ballerina. While fluffy organza skirts may have looked tutu literal on the runway, sans lace-up stilettos, they’ll make a delightful ingenue option.
Matthew Earnest: Ever wonder what a prepster from Texas might wear? In his sophomore collection, Matthew Earnest, a native of the Lone Star State, addressed the question with considerable authority. He started with a pure preppy vibe in, for example, skinny chinos worn with a sleeveless smocked top and deck shoes. There was a pinch of irony here, but just a smidgen. This is, after all, a collection inspired by his own old, brass-buttoned navy blazer.
As the show went on, Earnest’s Texas roots became more evident, as in a countrified, swingy side-tied cotton skirt. But while the prep factor far from disappeared. Instead, the two themes merged to delightful effect. Case in point: a flippy halter dress, true to its grounded, blue-blood roots in navy cotton twill piped in pink, but perfect for flirting with the ranch hands. All in all, a very promising effort from someone who just graduated from Parsons.
Small: Finally, that much-mocked men’s undergarment, the tighty whitey, gets a little respect. And leave it to two tongue-in-cheek blokes — “Sex and the City” contributing stylist Wade Blackmon and MTV motion-graphics designer David Foote — to dish out the props. The two teamed up in June to announce the launch of their line, Small, a name that suggests the British slang term for undies. The collection is a lineup of cheeky lingerie silhouettes using design elements from classic Y-fronts. The few innerwear pieces the pair sent out were essentially tighty whities reworked into bras and more feminine briefs. However, tops, dresses and jumpsuits, all with underwear seaming, got sequined treatments or tie-front details like the ones on football pants. It was all refreshingly playful and sexy.
Fushá: The fashion and music worlds fused for the showing of designer Marie Claudinette Pierre-Jean’s second collection at Bryant Park on Saturday. Russell Simmons, Damon Dash, Naomi Campbell and Cuba Gooding Jr. turned up to support Wyclef Jean’s better half, who presented a made-to-order lineup inspired by both 18th-century fashion and her Caribbean background. Pierre-Jean, whose private clients have included such stars as Ja Rule, Patti LaBelle and Whitney Houston, concentrated on eveningwear that was a little extravagant and plenty colorful, in shimmery fabrics and some bold prints. Although she faltered with some pieces that were more experimental — the striped minidress with a piece of ruffled fabric running over one leg, for example — her simpler fare, such as a long, pink ruched-front frock or the beaded minidresses, worked best. Her business is still young and limited to custom work, but she’s eager to wholesale in the future.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews