Max Mara and Sportmax: Remember Annie Hall? Annie worked a slouchy men’s wear look to perfection, almost always anchored by a vest. Well, if the team at Max Mara has its way, the vest may rise again. Its spring collection revolved almost exclusively around vests that came paired with everything — absolutely everything —from long, slim skirts to shorts rolled at the leg to cropped pants to pretty lacy dresses.
But Max Mara’s latter-day Annie isn’t content only with classic mannish versions borrowed from her boyfriend or brother — if either were to wear vests anymore, that is. She’s looking for variety, which this collection delivered in droves. To mention the tiny vests cropped to bikini-top proportions, the slouchy ones, those with cargo pockets or cut in seersucker, pinstripes or lace is to describe only a fraction of the lot. But vests aside, there were some lovely pieces which complemented the array — a purple snake trenchcoat, lacy tops, silk skirts and a series of floaty chiffons.
At Sportmax, the message was delivered with equal force, if not clarity, because the Sportmax girl, it seems, is given to wild swings of mood. When she’s not twittering about in her sweet floral chiffon, she’s vamping it up in a sporty cropped mesh jacket and microscopic skirt. All the disparate mixing made for a fairly rough ride, especially for the poor models who bravely, but tentatively, stepped onto a glass-slick runway atop dangerously high heels while sporting Eighties-style mall-rat hair and translucent tape that pulled at their temples like a low-budget facelift. But within the collection’s mix were plenty of items that survived the brutal extras, including a tan suede trenchcoat, suede jackets and suede skirts that offered a kernel of reality in the midst of the storm.
La Perla: Designing clothes for a lingerie company can be risky, with the danger of turning out a collection of trashy boudoir looks. And that’s what many people would expect from sex-in-your-face master Alessandro Dell’Acqua, now in his second season as La Perla’s creative director. Instead, the designer tempered the sizzle — he’ll probably boost the quotient in his signature collection later this week — and opted for pretty pieces designed to reveal just hints of exquisite lingerie, the houses’ specialty.The first group of black pieces — open-back chiffon blouses, cut-out dresses and barely there halter tops — cleverly showed off a flash of color with emerald green demi-bras. A charming lavender silk bra peeked out of a gossamer tank top, and was worn over a pleated miniskirt flecked with tiny pink ribbons. Dell’Acqua also used a stylized floral print for a silk bra that matched the ruffles of a dress. All in all, it was a delightful game of hide and seek.
Trussardi: Trussardi staged its show at Milan’s Bocconi University to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the house’s greyhound logo and the firm’s participation in a school program to introduce students to fashion. Beatrice Trussardi, who is now at the helm of the family-owned company, added a touch of the feminine this season, a trend that’s running through the collections here. She paired dainty gauze tops embroidered with suede strips with slim suede jeans and tubular calf belts. Trussardi also is experimenting with new, rather exotic, materials, showing short pleated skirts with sea snake inserts and trenches made of gallux, which is the skin of (are you ready for this?) chicken feet. It all made for a young, breezy collection, and the accessories, which Trussardi is focusing on now, look like sure hits: cylinder-shaped suede bags with tubular shoulder straps in geranium pink or croc bags with cameo closures etched with that greyhound logo.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty