Via Spiga Houses First Martin Margiela Store in Milan
Although located on Via Spiga, one of the busiest streets in Milan's fashionable golden triangle, the new Maison Martin Margiela boutique reflects the "Margiela way," according to the company's chief executive officer, Giovanni Pungetti.
MILAN — Although located on Via Spiga, one of the busiest streets in Milan's fashionable golden triangle, the new Maison Martin Margiela boutique reflects the "Margiela way," according to the company's chief executive officer, Giovanni Pungetti.
Nestled in a courtyard, the 2,160-square-foot boutique, the company's first in Italy, isn't obvious to passersby, although white footsteps sprayed on the pavement lead to the entrance. The two-story store is in a commercial area, but "not supervisible," said Pungetti, and is in line with the Belgian designer's elusiveness and the brand's avant-garde streak.
"We wanted to be in a shopping area, making it easier for our customers to reach us, without betraying the values of the brand," said the ceo. The boutique will be inaugurated with a party on Tuesday.
Pungetti said opening a store in Italy had become "a priority," as the country is one of the brand's three largest markets, together with Japan and the U.S. The company has no intention of aggressively pushing a retail strategy, but Pungetti said the stores help to communicate its essence. Margiela is currently available at 350 points of sale worldwide, including freestanding stores in Tokyo, Paris and Los Angeles, its 12th boutique, which opened last month. A store in St. Petersburg will open by the end of the year.
While decor pieces that are staples in other stores around the world are recognizable in the Milan shop, such as the chairs covered with white cotton slipcovers, there are new site-specific items: white-covered books piled and lined up to form shelves, and a structure of antique French window frames suspended from the ceiling and lit from the top, creating a trompe l'oeil effect on the white walls.
The space, located in a mid-19th-century building, was originally a private home. The company's architects recovered unique pieces, such as a precious ironwork handrail on the staircase that had been walled in by the previous tenants, and knocked down walls that had been added to create smaller rooms, for an airy, lighter feel. The floors are covered with white cowhide or a carpet with a gray hardwood-floor effect.
"We work to adapt our style and design to the structure of each store and each country," said Pungetti, who declined to project sales for the store, although he estimates the brand will have total sales of 55 million euros, or $76.7 million at current exchange, this year.At the shop's second entrance overlooking Via Senato, a garden opens to the street and takes inspiration from the botanical garden in Palermo, Sicily, with tiny white pebbles, a white antique bench and a stone fish tank that contains tiny white fish and a single red one — "Rosso" in Italian. (Diesel chief Renzo Rosso controls the Margiela brand through his Only the Brave Srl group.) Photos of the garden are framed in the windows on the lower floor, which is below street level. The windows are original, as the street was once a canal before the city decided to cover it with the existing street.
Rosso said he is very pleased with Margiela's business and spoke about the designer in enthusiastic tones. "He's the greatest designer in the world, and we are proud that he's part of our stable, that he's being watched and admired," said Rosso, referring to Marc Jacobs' recent remarks on how much influence Margiela has on himself and other designers.
"We have been growing the business from 18 million euros [or $25.3 million, when Only the Brave took control in 2002] to 55 million euros [or $77.5 million] while raising the brand's status, without just trying to make money out of it, squeezing it [for our own benefit]. It's our responsibility to continue to do good things. It's a great moment for Margiela — the new L.A. boutique went over our budget by 50 percent."
Rosso said the brand is expanding its accessories and small leather goods collections. "We've more than doubled them and they have more visibility," he noted. In fact, accessories are prominently displayed at the entrance of the Milan store.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty