By  on September 29, 2009

Easy yet catchy — that’s Rodolfo Paglialunga’s idea for the comeback of Vionnet.

Spring’s dress-centric lineup will be unveiled on Friday at the Musée de l’Homme in Paris and will display Paglialunga’s knack for artsy cuts and constructions, where the starting point often is a rectangular, scarflike piece of cloth.

Paglialunga, formerly a top assistant of Miuccia Prada’s, worked to make each piece versatile and easy to wear. “I like the idea that a woman can personalize most of the dresses by adding a belt, for example,” said Paglialunga.

Throughout, he uses silk or a cotton and ramie blend in various weights, often cobbled together in different colors and textures for a contemporary patchwork effect. Some styles are wraparound or crossover; others are cut on the bias or feature plunging necklines, while still others are ruffled and ruched.

For his part, Vionnet co-owner and chief executive officer Matteo Marzotto said he set up a cost-efficient operation to better weather the downturn. He expects Vionnet’s first-year sales to reach 2.5 million euros, or $3.6 million at current exchange, based partially on the fact the pre-spring collection was bought by about 100 stores, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and 10 Corso Como in Milan.

The wholesale price list averages 1,000 euros, or $1,465, and ranges from 450 euros, or $660, to 1,500 euros, or $2,197.

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