Easy yet catchy — that’s Rodolfo Paglialunga’s idea for the comeback of Vionnet.
Spring’s dress-centric lineup will be unveiled on Friday at the Musée de l’Homme in Paris and will display Paglialunga’s knack for artsy cuts and constructions, where the starting point often is a rectangular, scarflike piece of cloth.
Paglialunga, formerly a top assistant of Miuccia Prada’s, worked to make each piece versatile and easy to wear. “I like the idea that a woman can personalize most of the dresses by adding a belt, for example,” said Paglialunga.
Throughout, he uses silk or a cotton and ramie blend in various weights, often cobbled together in different colors and textures for a contemporary patchwork effect. Some styles are wraparound or crossover; others are cut on the bias or feature plunging necklines, while still others are ruffled and ruched.
For his part, Vionnet co-owner and chief executive officer Matteo Marzotto said he set up a cost-efficient operation to better weather the downturn. He expects Vionnet’s first-year sales to reach 2.5 million euros, or $3.6 million at current exchange, based partially on the fact the pre-spring collection was bought by about 100 stores, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and 10 Corso Como in Milan.
The wholesale price list averages 1,000 euros, or $1,465, and ranges from 450 euros, or $660, to 1,500 euros, or $2,197.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast