As he continues to remake French fashion house Vionnet into a modern — and Italian-based — brand, Matteo Marzotto has enlisted a countryman to speed the process along: Milan shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti.
“The value of having [Zanotti’s] experience at our disposal is to work on different shapes, to work in the best way with different materials,” explained Marzotto of the spring pre-collection which will be launched today in Milan. Previously, Marzotto said, the company had worked with a smaller Italian factory.
Marzotto, the former chief operating officer of Valentino SpA, teamed up with Marni chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni in February 2009 to acquire Vionnet. The co-owners swiftly handed Rodolfo Paglialunga, a longtime Prada designer, the creative reins of the company. Paglialunga will work closely with Zanotti on the shoes, which will be available in every door selling Vionnet (about 100 retailers, according to Marzotto). The 25-piece pre-collection will retail for between 450 and 600 euros (about $555 to $740).
A mix of leather and silk fabrics comprise the lineup, some strappy with color-blocked patterns and others with wrap ankles and flat soles. These are not replicas of the fashion house’s storied designs, however. “I made no references to the Madeleine Vionnet shoe archive,” Paglialunga noted.
That said, delivering a restrained elegance was important to Zanotti. “These are the opposite of the trendy shoes,” he said. “Nothing heavy, nothing out of proportion, elements from the Thirties and Forties to the present.” Zanotti, who has worked with Christophe Decarnin of Balmain, Proenza Schouler, and Thakoon on shoe collections, said he welcomes a young perspective on the design process (Paglialunga is 43). “I’m 53 years old, absolutely an old shoemaker,” Zanotti said. “But we are absolutely partners. We want to make the woman feel wonderful, but stable with the heel.”
The shoe collection is an integral, yet only partial, component of the growing Vionnet brand. Licensing other categories, Marzotto noted, is very much on his mind. “Madeleine Vionnet [was] one of the first designers to do perfume,” he said. “In the Twenties, she started with four different scents. So there’s a strong history there. We’d like to restart these things, but not too much at one time.”
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty