Diane von Furstenberg: Luckily, Diane von Furstenberg isn't one to crack under pressure. Between settling into her already proactive CFDA presidency and the fact that she's knee-deep in the delayed renovation of her new headquarters, she's had a lot going on that might have distracted her from her day job. Rather, her charming show on Sunday indicated that the increased workload suits her. But then, she did dub the collection "La Movida!"

Von Furstenberg worked a Spanish inspiration — a flash of Gaudí here, a toreador flourish there. The result was a typically savvy fusion of the sensual and the sensible, but with a notable upgrade to the sophistication level, starting with the palette. While she hardly abandoned color and prints, von Furstenberg gave in to the lure of black like never before. This put the focus on the shape of the clothes, highlighting the deft balancing act she maintained throughout: girlish froth countered by adult restraint; fluidity by structure; embellishment by simplicity. A fluffy taffeta party dress found a counterpoint in an utterly chic V-neck shift; structured jersey toppers, in a poetic tiered leather coat. And sometimes, the contrast came in a single look, as when a cozy cardigan coat tempered the sweetness of a little lacy cocktail frock.

Color came in Miró-inspired prints and festive dresses, including a snappy wrap dress in red with a matador ruffle. Because while von Furstenberg is the very personification of la movida, she would be foolish to move too far from her roots.

Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese called her fall presentation "Belle," and it was exactly that. She likes her girls looking feminine and polished to the nines, and her models walked out like little innocent flirts done up in sparkling party frocks — the best was a gray sequined trapeze with a gauzy overlay — and prim, not prissy, cardigans and coats. And those coats were charming in every incarnation, from the high-shine jacquard looks to the simpler sporty numbers, which will no doubt have her fans saying, "Bring on the chill."

Lela Rose: Lela Rose nearly hit all the right notes by injecting a little quirk into her girlish and pretty looks. She experimented with layering by slipping dresses over silky blouses — a look that worked well when the sleeves were superslim. The overall silhouette was relaxed this time and looked best when a full jacket and appliquéd top were paired with a skinny pant. There were plenty of dresses for her ladies, as well, some featuring lacy details and, most notably, jewel tones. Several voluminous dresses appeared a bit too tentlike, though, and would have worked better if pared down.Tom Scott: Tom Scott's asymmetrical knits, with intriguing folds, layers and zips, were standouts of the beautifully unconventional sort, e.g., a deceptively simple sweater dress with slouchy sleeves-cum-fingerless gloves.

Threeasfour: Adi, Ange and Gabi took their signature circular motif to a sophisticated new height, and though fall's fluid satin gowns and beautiful coats were safer than usual — for them — it would still be neat to see some fine young thing in Threeasfour come Oscar night.

Bruce: After taking three years off, Nicole Noselli and Daphne Gutierrez made a strong comeback with their Bruce collection, which displayed a more grown-up sensibility in chic day dresses and elegant suits peppered with pleats.

Araks: Araks Yeramyan struck a nice balance between the tailored and girly with great slouchy trousers and easy silk dresses and blouses in a pretty palette of berry colors and blues.

Marc Bouwer: A sweet cocktail frock, a sexy Grecian goddess dress or a prettily embroidered ballerina gown — whatever your pleasure, Marc Bouwer's got your number and enough fabulously faux furs to keep the PETA paint cans at bay.

Akiko Ogawa: Punk-rock glam mixed with schoolgirl-chic made for an upbeat show at Akiko Ogawa, where a highlight was her belted kimono-sleeved tunic.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus