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Less graphic and more amorphous, Vladimir Karaleev’s fall collection featured a revamp of his characteristic deconstructivist aesthetic. “I’m working more with the construction and draping again,” he said before the presentation. “And right now I enjoy those bizarre moments when things are obviously unbalanced.”

The 13 men’s and women’s looks presented were a strong collage of hefty fabrics worked with asymmetrical draping and open seams. A large-scale saffron, brown and gray plaid looked fresh on a boxy women’s top with open seams or a wide blouson jacket with broken edges. Despite heavy textures, a men’s speckled wool-crepe blouson with one arm done in plaid, the other in chunky wool knit appeared surprisingly light. Men’s and women’s tops were draped, the structures loose and changeable, often styled with plissé turtlenecks as a contrast.

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